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Thread: Double ended "Glow Staffs": Input on design and electronics

  1. #1

    Default Double ended "Glow Staffs": Input on design and electronics

    Hi. Please feel free to move this if it belongs in another forum.

    I'm part of a transient community of jugglers and staff/poi/fire spinners. Last night I was chatting to one of the other staff spinners about getting into hilt building because I use my double Maul FX for staff spinning. I realised that there is a market for glow staffs built with luxeon technology (basically a double ended saber) which would not need any sound or fancy ignition effect so should be reasonably cheap and straightforward to build.

    I'd really like to sound the idea out with those of you who have experience of double staff construction (or even just have any ideas).

    My design criteria are as follows:
    - Double ended removeable blades.
    - Does NOT need to be split into two sabers.
    - Varying lengths to be constructed, from about 3'6" to 7'
    - Hilt must be as plain and unobstructive as possible.
    - Ignition switch must NOT be easy to hit accidently (possibly with "safety" dual switch)
    - hilt should be as thin as I can reasonably make it.
    - Rechargeable battery pack to feed BOTH luxeons simultaneously.
    - Would like to use at least a LuxIII and maybe a K2 where it's going to be appropriate (i.e. brighter but not significant battery drain)


    I have a good idea on how to start this but have a few questions:

    1) Can anyone point me towards a guide to wiring up a rechargeable battery pack to two LEDs? Searching "double" and "double saber" doesn't bring up very specific results!

    2) Would it be possible to run 2 LEDs off the same circuit board/driver? (Sorry if the answer is obvious. I'm new!)

    3) Practical consideration: I don't need the hilt to separate into two, but I DO need to be able to access the guts to construct and (inevitably) repair it. I could use a double male threaded part and two female sink tubes. However as things stand I'm having real trouble getting hold of chrome sink tubes in the UK and I want to avoid ordering too much from the US as I get charged 17.5% by customs and about 18 by the courier for processing through customs! I could always look into non chrome sink tubes and see if I can get the connectors. Is it easy enough to manufacture the whole thing inside one solid piece of pipe and just remove the remove one LED assembly to access the guts?

    4) I need to look into switches properly yet but does anyone have a suggestion of a good recessed switch or to low profile oses that I could wire up as a safety?

    5) Is there any reason I shouldn't use K2s as they seem to be brighter (although people say a Lux III is brighter in red?), need less keatsinking and I will have enough room in the hilt for all the batteries I need! Will it be too much driving 2 K2s of the same electronics? Where should I look for wiring guidance of K2s in this arrangement?


    Thanks for any help you can offer. I've checked out the main tutorials (inc Corbin's Site) so I have seen how to wire up standard arrangements. I just can't find the answers to my other questions.

  2. #2
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    I could make a double staff like you want using the MHS parts and do recessed slide switches. This would be allot more durable than sink tubes.

    There would be nothing wrong with using 2 k2's.

    Here is the best site I have found for wiring led's
    http://metku.net/index.html?sect=vie...calc/index_eng
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  3. #3
    supertrogdor's Avatar
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    Strydur is too quick on the draw for me most of the time, but definately use MHS parts. IF you are going to be doing serious spinning, the eventual drop will happen. The MHS builds that i have done can take a pretty good beating and i think everyone here that has tried them will concur. If it was me i would get Strydur to do the recessed switch for you, as that would prevent any accidental turning off during a performance. The internal guts are relatively easy to do, and very accessable as the parts all screw together so any repairs(which are not likely needed if you do it right the first time) would be a snap to make.
    other than that good luck and happy spinning

  4. #4

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    I have done two MHS staffs now and I will tell ya they are right on for what you want.

    I did the first staff for the exact reasons that you mentioned and it turned out great. I still get to see it and play with it every now and then. Both of the ones I have done have been "Jedi" colors so I have not yet ran in to the issue that Corbin did when he made the red staff. If you want to do those colors though it is easy enough to take care of.

    My next staff I want to do will be a dual 5w setup and I was thinking of using the buttered toast on it. That would be a big jump for me since I so far have not been the biggest fan of sound.
    Red 5 "Move Dangit! I gots Snitz to blow up!"

  5. #5

    Default

    Picture edited to work now

    Tim, is this the kind of setup you're talking about?

    ...or can you suggest a better (and/or cheaper!) arrangement?
    What's the cost implication of installing (or cutting the slot for) recessed slide switches?

    Would the postage be going at $15.53 (or is that US postage costs only?) without blades?

    I'd like to do a prototype and if there's sufficient interest make a few. Although I'd prefer to find my own housing to make these staffs to save on costs (about half again in tax and courier costs), the MHS hilts do look a great way to go to start. I'd also probably order a few MHS parts for myself to construct my first "normal" saber hilt.

    By the way, what was the issue with Corbin's red staff? I didn't see that post.

  6. #6
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    I cant see that picture.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  7. #7

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    It should come up as a shutterfly link. I uploaded in a rush and i can't find anywhre on the page that has the direct link. If it really doesn't work let me know and I'll try something else.

  8. #8
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    brings me to a create account page. You can just upload pics here using your album space.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  9. #9

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    James 3 and supertrogdor (Quality Homestar Runner reference BTW!), thanks for the staff input. It's good to have some others who know where I'm coming from.

    Tim, I'll sort that link out asap. I'm away from home at the moment so can't fix it here. I'm interested in any suggestions you may have.

    To explain anyway, It was the plain emitters with one short midsection, one male to male connector and one long midsection with the hole. The whole thing is about 14". That's what I'm imagining you'd put together.

    This should work now:

  10. #10
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    As long as you dont want any design to it. Or with ribbed sections if you did.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

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