1 hilt 2 blades help.

[Calculon]

Hey all,

First of all I'd glady accept a link to a tutorial for the following.
2nd If you have any experience with the following I'd appreciate you sharing your insight.

I need help trying to wrap my head around this build. Completely overwhelmed just trying to figure out the right switch. Skipping to the next hurdle; can I wire 2 LEDs, with FOC and sound to a 18650 cell or will I need to use 2 18650s or 2 14500s?


1 Nano Biscotte v3
1 Hilt
1 momentary av switch with red led
2 custom Tri-Cree LEDs with FOC (royal blue, green, white-foc ) Can the colors of each die be modified using the NB?

values here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cu...LED-P1035.aspx)

1 2w bass speaker

? battery or batteries

I dont even know how to ask this;

for example: If I want a cyan with white foc for each end of the hilt, how do I get the color cyan? resistors to each die on each led? NB options? Do the dies for the main blade color have to be identical? (both the same value blue)

What will be the power requirement for these 2 leds in these colors?

At what point do I use a buckpuck?

Thank you for your time.

[Greenie]

Hello there, welcome to the forums. That's alotta questions The NB is designed to run on a single 3.7v battery, 18500 or 18650 would be best. No colour mixing on board but , yes, you can use resistors to mix colours of a multi die led. You won't need a buck puck if using resistors. Cool colours such as W G B rB can run. @ 1000mA, warm colours, A O R @ 700mA but always refer to the spec of chosen LED. You will also need a resistor on the switch LED, the 20mA dynaohm in store is ideal for this but a bit large. The mom sw has four pins, two for the led (opposites marked + -) the other two for the switch (no polarity), if that's what's causing your 'headache'
Hope this helps.
Good luck and MTFBWY

[Silver Serpent]

The Nano Biscotte is not designed to handle that many high powered LEDs. You could easily do a single bladed saber with green and blue mixed for cyan and the white FoC, but the second blade will push you well over the maximum current limit. There are ways around that, but it's better to get a sound board that's designed to handle what you're trying to do.

You've got a power draw of 4A for the 2 blues and 2 greens, plus another 2A when the FoC goes off. You're going to want 18650 cells for certain if you've got a 6A max draw.

[Calculon]

Thank you for the responses. Extremely enlightening!

The switch... aside from size and space and mounting issues, figuring out what works with, without buckpuck, pre wired with resistor or not etc etc ... bezel.

Thank you for the breakdown Greenie, I think I crashed out reading about forward voltage last night.

Silver I really was trying to get the most outta that little NB lol. I'll wait a bit for stock (actually good nothings in stock as I might destroy things) and work on some soldering skills.

The formula for making sure the power draw from all your components will work with your battery? Is this a thing?

Thank you for the excellent insight.

[Silver Serpent]

If you have too high of a current draw, you will trip the PCB and it'll cut off your battery. This is a safety feature to keep li-ions from exploding. This: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/PC...tery-P481.aspx has a cutoff of 8.5A.

A general rule of thumb that I use: No current draws at more than twice the rated capacity. If you have a 2000mAh rated battery, don't draw more than 4000mA from it. If you need a lot of power discharged, you'll need to wire up multiple cells in parallel, or start building your own LED drivers.

[Calculon]

I bow to your wisdom. I read this a few times at different speeds til it sunk in. Noted!

[Calculon]

Do I need the pcb to upgrade a stunt saber to use the NB?

I have to rip out the latching switch for a LED momentary one, replace the standard set up with a li-ion cell and speaker and change the LED for foc (will the switch work for FOC or do I need to do something special? Can I cut and paste the batteries in and just solder the speaker to the board? Lastly the LED should have a single resistor? or one for each die to keep it from overdriving?

[Greenie]

The PCB that SS is talking about is the one built in to 'protected' Li-Ion batteries. Always get protected cells. Resistor each die based on the mA rating of each die. For this you may want to familiarise yourself with Ohms law. FOC is a built in feature of plecter sound boards but only usable with a multi die LED, for example my first saber uses a GGW with the two greens as the main blade and the white for FOC (lights up briefly on blade impact). You may also want to consider some sort of chassis for holding the battery, soundboard and speaker or they'll just rattle around inside

[Generic Jedi]

You don't need anything special for FoC, the soundboards have motion sensors.
I don't know what you mean by "cut and paste the batteries in".
You solder the speaker to the board.
It's recommended to use a resistor for each LED.

Download and read the Nano Biscotte manual. You can find a link on the NB page in the store. It will help A LOT with understanding how the board works and how you wire it up.

[Calculon]

Understood and thank you Greenie. I think now I just need to understand what fits inside whose chassis. Im considering buying a custom led from the shop but am hung up on the correct size for a hilt from US. MHSv1, v2... the correct heatsync and or correct bezel for the switch. I think im on my 2nd babystep.

As always; greatly appreciate the expertise.