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Thread: MHS Relic Saber "Torch"

  1. #11

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    Nice saber. I like the weathering. Rogue and Terraform are cool soundfonts, I've used them both myself. Nice Ghost in the Shell soundtrack in the background of the vid.

  2. #12
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    Cool look and nice weathering!
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  3. #13

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    Sweet looking saber! I agree with everyone else, that weathering is awesome!

  4. #14

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    Agreed, weathering looks great. Nice work girot.

  5. #15

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    The weathering is amazing. Care to share your technique?

  6. #16

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    I did what is shown in the TCSS YouTube video on weathering:




    *Clean the parts to be weathered. (I used 99% IPA)
    *Scuff up the parts with a fine grit sand paper. (I used 220 grit)


    For the emitter and shroud I also, literally, kicked them around my back patio to let the cement do a little damage.

    *Clean the parts again. (99% IPA again)
    *Pre-soak rags with paint thinner.


    I ended up with the goo-type thinner instead of the alcohol-type. This actually helped out a lot as it smeared really nicely.
    I also used disposable shop towels (the blue paper towels they sell at automotive shops) instead of fabric rags. This left fibers from the towels mixed in with the paint. I panicked a little at first but once I saw the how it looked after it set I was very happy. It has a nice grungy look to it where the paint is thickest and really lends itself to the look and feel of the saber. As Master Ross would say, "we'll call that a happy accident."

    *Use some old blade material as a handle and to plug up the inside of the saber. Tape off ANYTHING you don't want paint getting into (i.e. screw holes, anything threaded).
    *Using flat black spray paint (formulated for use with metal) give the part(s) a gentle spray. Use as little or as much as needed.
    *Before the paint can dry quickly wipe down the part(s) with the pre-soaked rags. Remove the most paint from areas where one's hands would naturally polish the saber through regular use.
    *Repeat until you are satisfied with the results. Allow paint to fully cure over 2-4 days.


    I was concerned about the gooey nature of the paint thinner I bought. If it had been alcohol based it would have simply evaporated as the paint cured. I had no idea what this goo would do. So I went back over everything with more IPA... and it wiped the entire thing clean. I did a total of 5 layers on everything but the emitter. I was careful not to use too much thinner from then on out. That being said, I was grateful to learn that IPA could work as a "reset button" in the event I needed one.

    In the future I'd really like to experiment with using additional colors and paint schemes.
    Last edited by girot; 03-06-2016 at 06:27 AM.

  7. #17

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    I like your pommel insert. That's a fine saber you've constructed.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #18

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    I always love your work
    "Peace is a lie. Perhaps the greatest of them all. Peace, or a lack of change equals Death. If the waters of a pool cease to move, and become stagnant, the waters poison themselves, and kill all who drink from it. Chaos, on the other hand, brings great change. Should the pool be over taken by a river, life springs anew.
    -Lord Malyce, Exile of Sith, First Warrior of Sands

  9. #19

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    Very nice! Great weathering work. Like the mini-Ahsoka details!

  10. #20

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    Great job. Looks like it means business!

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