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Thread: Royal Blue vs. Blue

  1. #11

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    Learning is part of the fun.
    If the green in not resisted enough you think it would just overpower the blue and make it green?

  2. #12

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    green LEDs in general put out more Lumens than most other LEDs including blues. unresistored or using one that barely meets the LED's specified safety rating would make the flash be fairly green. my white when the FoC triggers is very bright and nearly drowns out the blues though I don't mind that a whole lot.

  3. #13

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    Right on, thanks!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    I think it would be nice if the store had some sort of example of what any given color should look like. For example, I haven't ordered an amber LED, because I don't know if it's going to be yellow, orange-yellow, orange ...
    I've had quite a few Amber-LED sabers over the years and they all tend to orange-yellow or yellow-orange...nice if you like that, which I do, but if you want a true yellow OR true orange you will need to RGB colour mix [or in the case of yellow a Lee "Oklahoma Yellow" cinema gel filter on a white LED will work but these days RGB mixing is the more usual option].

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onli-Won Kanomi View Post
    I've had quite a few Amber-LED sabers over the years and they all tend to orange-yellow or yellow-orange...nice if you like that, which I do, but if you want a true yellow OR true orange you will need to RGB colour mix [or in the case of yellow a Lee "Oklahoma Yellow" cinema gel filter on a white LED will work but these days RGB mixing is the more usual option].
    Thank you

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onli-Won Kanomi View Post
    I've had quite a few Amber-LED sabers over the years and they all tend to orange-yellow or yellow-orange...nice if you like that, which I do, but if you want a true yellow OR true orange you will need to RGB colour mix [or in the case of yellow a Lee "Oklahoma Yellow" cinema gel filter on a white LED will work but these days RGB mixing is the more usual option].
    I use the amber Cree with one of the greenish-blue filters from this pack to get a nice yellow colour. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/11...scs--P164.aspx
    Fifth one from the right. It isn't as bright as the cree alone (obviously) but it works well. I use it as a shorter off-hand saber, so the brightness doesn't make that much of a difference for the blade length I use...

  7. #17

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    Someone asked for a pic of a Amber LED. Single CREE LED with a 1.2 Ohm 1.2 Watt resistor; 3.7 v li-ion battery 14500 series. Here ya go. The blade is a clear blade with a solid diffuser from TCSS. This picture was taken inside with all the lights off.
    IMG_20160902_085411370.jpg
    Last edited by DarthSkummelavsky; 01-18-2017 at 03:07 PM.

  8. #18

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    I am getting closer to the shade of orange I am looking for. Tri-Cree LED R/A/rB are the dice colors. The rB is being used for FoC. Resistor values used to achieve are 2 Ohm, 2 Watt on the Red die and 1.2 Ohm, 1.2 Watt on the Amber die. I am think about stepping up the red die to a 2.2 Ohm, 2 Watt to fine tune the shade. I am using a single 18650 3.7v as my test power supply.

    As soon as I get the orange I am looking for I'll post some pics and the specs.

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