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Thread: First New Build Help Please!

  1. #1

    Default First New Build Help Please!

    Hi All,

    Been perusing over the forums and various sabersmiths over the last few weeks. Utterly astounded at the work!

    I've been watching Madcow's excellent tutorials on building a basic saber with sound and decided to take the plunge and go for it!

    Please have a look over my build list:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...3-693c1d6deb56

    Things like the batteries and chargers I will need to get here as I am in the UK.

    Can anyone suggest replacement's to the hilt sections as there isn't anything in stock. Can I extensions potentially?

    Im keen to order it all in one go from somewhere to save shipping and import costs but don't want to miss the chance to get a NBv3 before they go out of stock!

    Welcome any help or advice!

    Dave.

  2. #2
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Default

    I would strongly suggest you get what you can when it is in stock. There has been a surge of new interest in the hobby and things are selling quite fast. Getting everything in one order is going to be very difficult. I know that stinks but it's the nature of the beast right now.

    Yes you can use extensions rather than hilt bodies. You may need an adapter or gender changer to may them work.

    Your list looks good, but I just skimmed
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  3. #3

    Default

    Unfortunately, DC is right. It's most unlikely to get it all in one go. Are you aware of JQ Sabers? They are based in the UK and they bulk order from TCSS. When I started my first build, this time last year, they supplied all hilt sections in one order for me and the all important Li-Ion batteries. Admittedly, it's now a much busier time but it's definitely worth inquiring. You can also order soundboards direct from Plecter (France) although NBs are out of stock right now. Not much help, I know but good to have options cos international shipping is a pain in the wallet

    Good luck with the build dude and MTFBWY

    Oh yeah, order more than one thermal tape pad. TM
    Last edited by Greenie; 02-22-2016 at 02:26 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks Greenie!

    In my impatientness i ordered a Caliburn Mk2 off there shelf! Very very happy with it!

    Still, want to build one haha!

    So ive had a good think about the parts, getting a mix from TCSS and JQ.

    Listed here:

    MHS speaker mount V6 - For 28mm Speakers
    Premium 28mm Speaker
    18650 Single Cell Holder

    MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 8
    6" Double female threaded connector
    Trim Ring 4
    MPS Pommel style 8
    MHS choke style 1 short - With 12MM Hole

    "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
    18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
    Star thermal tape pad
    12mm switch

    MHS Heat Sink V3

    Nano Biscotte Sound Module V3


    I plan to have it GG with the W as FOC.

    It would be using a single 18650 3.7v battery.

    Looking at it, i think you use 3 x 1 ohm resistors ( 1 per LED ) GG wired in parrellel and the W on its own to the FOC.

    Can someone look at the above and let me know if im missing anything obvious aside from wires!

  5. #5

    Default

    Does the 12mm switch have a LED? If so, you'll need a resistor for it.
    Don't forget the heatshrink.
    Get more than one star themal tape pad. It's easy to mess up the first time.

  6. #6

    Default

    Aha!

    Double up on the thermal pad. heatshirink, extra resistor for LED!

    Thanks for the tip!

    Anything else? Just worried i order all the bits and then realise id forgotten something critical!!

  7. #7

    Default

    You don't seem to have a pommel insert and C clip to hold it in, if you want one that is. The v4 heatsink is shorter, if it's a 'tight' build.
    Will a 12mm switch in a choke work? Not sure what your plan is there Your resistor values seem a bit high, you can run G and W @ 1000mA. I think I used 0.5ohm for my GGW. not trying to sway you in any way but IMO the 28mm bass speaker sounds a bit better. As previously stated and fast becoming my TMalways get more than one thermal tape pad.

  8. #8

    Default

    Ok so pulled the trigger on the parts. Sadly by the time i got round to ordering the NBv3 was out of stock.

    Decided to get some practise on in the meantime and build it as is without sound and add sound later.

    So on my GGW LED Tri Cree the details are:

    Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00F01
    122 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.58v

    Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00F01
    122 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.58v


    White Cree Part# XPEBWT-L1-0000-00F51
    266 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 1000mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v


    With no NB to play with i figure i will ignore the white die for the moment and wire the 2 greens in parallel.

    From what i have read, general advice is to resistor each die seperatley.

    Using a 3.7v 4000 battery

    So with that said online calculator reckons a 1ohm resistor.

    Calculator also says "the wizard thinks the power dissipated in your resistors is a concern"

    However doing the calculations myself i come out with:

    3.7-3.58/1

    0.12 Ohm resistor

    I suppose i would round this up to a .47 or a .5Ohm resistor. Why would Watts matter on the resistor?

  9. #9

    Default

    The resistor calculator is pretty conservative. It always rounds up, and doesn't give values below 1 ohm.

    The math you've done is correct, and the 0.47 ohm 1/2 watt resistor is fine. Wattage is a minimum value. Never go lower than what you calculate, or you risk blowing the resistor (and shortly afterwards, your LED). You can always use a higher wattage resistor, but be aware that 5w and 10w resistors are BIG and eat up valuable space in your hilt.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks Silver,

    Managed to acquire some .33 ohm 1W and .47ohm 1W resistors to be on the safe side.

    so with that said my Saber will be basic at first while waiting for availability on the NBV3

    Pretty much ignoring the White until i get the NBv3.

    Can someone let me know if my wiring will work on the below using a Momentary Latching convertor as shown?


    saber wiring.jpg


    Cheers!

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