Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: NB3 Wiring Check

  1. #1

    Default NB3 Wiring Check

    Posting for a second looks as this is the first NB build. I know the resistors are a little high I calculated for the 4.2v max charge and then rounded up just my preference from building prototypes.

    Blade color I am going for is a Silver mixed from the white and one blue, second blue will be FoC at either 1000mA or 750mA depending on tests.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by FenixFire; 02-17-2016 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Used the 60% rule...Adjusted resistor values

  2. #2

    Default

    Looks correct.

  3. #3

    Default

    The wiring diagram looks OK. Your "logic" for your resistor values is "fuzzy", but since you're the one that has to live with the results - have fun!
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #4

    Default

    FJK, It is just some old learning's that come from an electronics course I took while still in an Electrical Engineering program before realizing I wanted to design in a much more artistic way. Basically it recommended not driving a current reducing component such as a diode or resitor past 60% of its maximum rated load.

    Don't worry I will also be getting the .5ohm-.5W resistors as well to test.

    Since the prototypes I typically build are tradeshows or presentation models of medical components I rarely work with anything besides direct DV voltage. For the battery should or Shouldn't I account for the initial overcharge of the Li-Ions?

  5. #5

    Default

    Normally, you shouldn't in this case... and the reasons are fairly easy.
    1. The Vf we use is a median (meaning that 99.99% should be able to take more if they needed to). 2. The resistors we use are rounded up (to some extent) anyway, meaning you already have "more" protection that you likely need.
    3. Nothing is perfect. everything has some "tolerance" built in to it (see reasons 1 and 2).
    4. I have never heard of a "properly installed" main LED "wearing out" under normal use as defined in this hobby. And I've been around a long time and have seen a lot of stuff.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •