Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 34

Thread: Resistor questions for Tri Cree B/B/W with NBv3

  1. #1

    Default Resistor questions for Tri Cree B/B/W with NBv3

    Just calculating the resistors I need for my build. At first I had .5w 1.8 ohm resistors for the blues and 2w 1 ohm for the white LED, but after reading a bit it seems that 2w 1 ohm will work for the blues as well. Is this a correct assumption? The blues are listed at 3.1Vf @ 350 mA, but I'm assuming this is a conservative number? Tim has them listed at 3.47v @ 1000mA. So with Tim's numbers 2w 1 ohm would be perfect. I also have a 5mm blue accent LED, 3.3v @ 20mA, so the resistor should be 1/8w 22ohm. Does this sound right? One last question, I'm using the white LED as FoC, does it need a resistor? I've been researching for a while here and I've seen people saying it does not need one. Why is that? Probably gonna pick up a resistor for it today just in case. Thanks as always everyone for the help.

  2. #2

    Default

    Since you want to drive the LED at 1000mA, you would use the forward voltage of the LED at 1000mA. So assuming you're using a 3.7V li-ion, your numbers are good. I would recommend popping a resistor on your FoC LED just to be safe.

  3. #3

    Default

    Yep I'm using a 3.7 li-ion. Figured better be safe than sorry with the white LED. Thanks NanoRex!! Picking up my wires and resistors today. Of course I still need to raid Home Depot for crystal chamber parts. So may be a few days before I start the actual build.

  4. #4

    Default

    I've been working on my saber since October and I'm still in the parts collecting phase. A few days should be no problem

  5. #5

    Default

    Which parts are you looking for? I may be able to point you in the right direction for something. I was able to get the speaker off some model train website, 27mm and it actually fits snug in the V5 mount. I was able to find the battery, recharge port, heatsink, and led. Now my big obstacle is the chamber itself. I don't want to use the 3d printed one. Nothing against anyone using them, just want to come up with my own idea. So plumbing parts seems like the most optimal solution. I was just at home Depot and they have a ton of awesome connectors. Might be a lot of JB weld in this thing but I'm fine with that : )

  6. #6

    Default

    I have most of my parts already. It's only taking forever because I need to get all sorts of specialized parts, and I have to wait for some to ship before I can order others. The last things I need right now are my customized hilt parts that Tim and I are working on, and I still need to 3D model my chassis parts and print them.

    Good luck with the crystal chamber!

  7. #7

    Default

    I was thinking about modeling my own crystal chasis, I work at an animation studio so that's not a problem. Just really don't know where to start. Like how many holes it would need, tubes for wires, where everything would mount. Just too much but I could try something.

  8. #8

    Default

    I'm actually not a huge fan of 3D printed crystal chambers. I prefer to use chassis parts from TCSS along with other parts that I find at the hardware store and fastener store, and on the internet.

    If you do want to 3D print one, design the rest of your chassis first so you know where the threaded rods will be (so you know where you need holes through the chamber), then add holes or a channel to run wires through. G.O.T.H. 3Designs on Shapeways has some cool 3D crystal chambers that you could look at for inspiration.

  9. #9

    Default

    If it's 3.47v at 1000mA, wouldn't the resistor be 0.23ohms?

  10. #10

    Default

    Actually I dunno what I was saying before, because a 0.5 ohm resistor should be fine for the blues (and probably your white as well), and will make them slightly brighter than using a 1 ohm resistor.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •