Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Next build design/Inventor model (because someone asked)

  1. #11

    Default

    If you do go with a screw you can just design a hole slightly smaller than the threads. This way there's no drilling or tapping. The threads will bite into the plastic. I did it this way for a recharge port and rice port. Again, mind your thickness.
    末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末 末末末末

  2. #12

    Default

    I actually thought they were just slightly smaller then ahsoka's but then again i was just glancing at pictures and not measuring i only have them about .25in wide and thought that was too small...might make them a tad bit thicker

    and i never considered epoxy..then again not my favorite thing to use, but good to know about.
    and i understand what you're saying about the hole, and makes perfect sense cant believe i didnt think of that before..

  3. #13

    Default

    Ok so now that spring semester is over for me I had more time to keep working on the design and inner workings.
    Heres the wiring diagram using the knowledge that I think i know about this stuff lol. Hoping to just see if its right using the Prizm V4, and a RGrB tri cree.
    Saber 2 wiring.jpg (sorry small image)

    (I used the full battery voltage of 4.2ohm for calculations)
    R1= Greed die= .62ohm rounded up to 1ohm 2watt
    R2= Red die = 1.61 ohm rounded up to 2ohm 1watt (?) not sure with this one
    R3= royal Blue die = .79 ohm rounded to 1ohm 2watt

    R4= dynaohm for switch
    R5= resistor for possible CC LED, not sure on color yet so will determine value when I decide (thinking maybe white, any suggestions?)

    only thing I forgot to put on the diagram was the RICE port on the back.
    Little bit thrown off with wiring cause of the sound board so just curious if I did this correct in regards to resistors and recharge port.
    Also, Im also wondering: Do I need anything else to allow for the changing of color on the fly that the Prizm can do? Im not clear on whether or not its a board feature only or if you have to have other hardware to get that working?
    Last edited by Hermitjensen; 05-09-2016 at 01:47 PM.

  4. #14

    Default

    The positive pads on the main LED are supposed to be connected to the main positive pad on the board. The negative pads on the main LED should be connected to the three color channels (the wires with the resistors in your diagram).

  5. #15

    Default

    Funny thing is I actually did mean to do it that way....not entirely sure why I did that in the diagram though lol
    Thanks for pointing that out! Will make a note to myself to remember that.

  6. #16

    Default

    Color changing is as simple as pressing both pwr and aux simultaneously while the saber is on. The board handles it all with nothing extra needed.
    末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末 末末末末

  7. #17

    Default

    Ok thats what I thought, thanks for confirming that.
    The manual was talking about color channels and color extenders and I had no clue what it was talking about lol

  8. #18

    Default

    If you want to try and make your own bunny ears, I've seen people use aluminum u-channel for that.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  9. #19

    Default

    ok so over a year later. I now have all the parts for this saber (well 99.5%..forgot a kill key, the blade, and usb-RICE cable lol) and wanted to start work on the outside of the hilt and the shroud pattern. which I figured awhile back would most likely require a drill press to make it even on both sides of the shroud work. So this whole summer my project has been to get my late-grandfathers old Shopsmith up and running again (was in our garage for 15yrs..) and finally got that working and tested out drilling a few holes in random bits of aluminum and that works. but now i'm alittle stuck on how to do my planned shroud pattern..
    My plan was to just drill a bunch of holes going down where the channels will be and then sanding/filing away the 'teeth' that is left behind.
    like this:
    Saber together.jpg
    (circles being each drilled hole)

    I'm just wondering if you experts out there were tasked with doing a shroud like this how would you go about it?

  10. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitjensen View Post
    ok so over a year later. I now have all the parts for this saber (well 99.5%..forgot a kill key, the blade, and usb-RICE cable lol) and wanted to start work on the outside of the hilt and the shroud pattern. which I figured awhile back would most likely require a drill press to make it even on both sides of the shroud work. So this whole summer my project has been to get my late-grandfathers old Shopsmith up and running again (was in our garage for 15yrs..) and finally got that working and tested out drilling a few holes in random bits of aluminum and that works. but now i'm alittle stuck on how to do my planned shroud pattern..
    My plan was to just drill a bunch of holes going down where the channels will be and then sanding/filing away the 'teeth' that is left behind.
    like this:
    Saber together.jpg
    (circles being each drilled hole)

    I'm just wondering if you experts out there were tasked with doing a shroud like this how would you go about it?
    Print the design on paper and wrap it around the shroud material using spray adhesive. If you can, get yourself a cross slide that will fit the drill press and has enough travel to cover the length of the holes you need to drill. It will make life so much easier. If that's not an option just go slow. Drill the holes smaller than the final size. Then file to the printed line on the template.
    末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末 末末末末

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •