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Thread: 2015 Hasbro Bladebuilders diagram

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    I got the transistor (TIP42g), but I'm not getting blade lights. Facing forward the pins are Base (board LED negative), Collector (LED positive), Emitter. (board power positive). I've even swapped the wires around positions, just in case.
    That's the correct positions on the tip42g transistor. Can you post a pic of your wiring?

  2. #12

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    I have a cree xpe2 blue only using 2 of the three dices

  3. #13

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    This diagram helped me. Thx for posting.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by utlonghorns416 View Post
    I have a cree xpe2 blue only using 2 of the three dices
    I try to stay with a single die with these econo boards. Not to say that the multi die leds won't work but the less strain I can put on them the better. You should probably be good with 1ohm resistor on each positive with a 3.7v source or a 2.7ohm with a 6v source.
    Last edited by soundwave809; 02-08-2016 at 10:23 AM.

  5. #15

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    Hey thanks for the diagram! Really helped me figure most of this out.
    I do have a couple of questions though. I'm modding two Ultrasabers stunt sabers with these 2015 Hasbro boards. The sabers both have 4 aaa battery boxes and latching type switches, not momentary.
    Can I run 4 aaa's with your diagram? Also can I run the latching type switches or should I find momentary switches for it?

    Thanks,
    -Bossman

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bossman View Post
    Hey thanks for the diagram! Really helped me figure most of this out.
    I do have a couple of questions though. I'm modding two Ultrasabers stunt sabers with these 2015 Hasbro boards. The sabers both have 4 aaa battery boxes and latching type switches, not momentary.
    Can I run 4 aaa's with your diagram? Also can I run the latching type switches or should I find momentary switches for it?

    Thanks,
    -Bossman
    No problem, I run mine on 4AAA batteries, just make sure you resistor the led. As far as I know the hasbro boards are only compatible with momentary switches.

  7. #17

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    image.jpgimage.jpgOk, so I just wired it all up. Have sound, motion and clash...but no led. Double checked the diagram vs what I have. I'm using the resistor that was already on the negative lead from US, but I put it onto the positive leg as the diagram shows. Still nothing. I'll post a few pics for giggles. What specific resistor is recommended or did I miss that in the thread? Any advice is appreciated.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    -Bossman
    Last edited by Bossman; 02-08-2016 at 04:33 PM.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bossman View Post
    image.jpgimage.jpgOk, so I just wired it all up. Have sound, motion and clash...but no led. Double checked the diagram vs what I have. I'm using the resistor that was already on the negative lead from US, but I put it onto the positive leg as the diagram shows. Still nothing. I'll post a few pics for giggles. What specific resistor is recommended or did I miss that in the thread? Any advice is appreciated.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    -Bossman
    What LED are you using, how many volts is your power source, and what resistor are you using? Hard to tell from the pics.
    Last edited by soundwave809; 02-08-2016 at 06:57 PM.

  9. #19

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    I'm using the quad AAA battery holder that came with the saber from Ultrasabers and running rechargable NiMH batteries. Just took the bulb assembly apart and saw that the LED is a Luxdrive A007 Indus red single diode. The resistor that came mounted on the LED from US is stamped 2.0 ohm 5% 3W. It was mounted on the negative lead but switched it over to the positive per your diagram. I added the TIP 42g transistor to the back side and wired it as the diagram stated.
    I ran new 20 ga. solid wire up from the original Hasboro speaker, and also new 20 ga. to all of the board connections, with the exception of the Hasbro momentary switch. The pictures also show the liquid electrical tape I used in the connections after I soldered them, (its not melted insulation)

    thumb_IMG_7747_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7748_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7751_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7753_1024.jpg

    -Bossman
    Last edited by Bossman; 02-08-2016 at 08:35 PM.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bossman View Post
    I'm using the quad AAA battery holder that came with the saber from Ultrasabers and running rechargable NiMH batteries. Just took the bulb assembly apart and saw that the LED is a Luxdrive A007 Indus red single diode. The resistor that came mounted on the LED from US is stamped 2.0 ohm 5% 3W. It was mounted on the negative lead but switched it over to the positive per your diagram. I added the TIP 42g transistor to the back side and wired it as the diagram stated.
    I ran new 20 ga. solid wire up from the original Hasboro speaker, and also new 20 ga. to all of the board connections, with the exception of the Hasbro momentary switch. The pictures also show the liquid electrical tape I used in the connections after I soldered them, (its not melted insulation)

    thumb_IMG_7747_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7748_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7751_1024.jpgthumb_IMG_7753_1024.jpg

    -Bossman
    Do you have the LED negative wire soldered from the tip 42 to the LED negative on the bottom of the board, and than another soldered wire to the actual LED neg from the same spot?

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