Nano biscoutte problem

[Jacobpac]

I built my first saber with sound!

I'm using nano biscoutte v3, Cree r/g/b - purple with green Foc,

Problem: everything was working as it should... Then I noticed the blue and red began alternating intensity. It started switching between purple and magenta. Then when the saber was turned off red led still output light.

I'm using a wiring harness. I trouble shot and narrowed it down to a problem between the blue wire/L- and the negative battery input(just left of it). (I ripped all the wires out of harness and soldered on back.

The only thing I can assume is that solder may be touching on the top side. I checked all wiring connections.

Any suggestions?

Any idea on how to remove harness plug after it was soldered?

[Greenie]

Good pics of your wiring would help diagnose the problem

[Jacobpac]

image.jpg

Here is the wiring diagram. To reiterate, the red led stay lit when powered off. When I discount the red led, the blue led stays lit.

LEDs are parallel wired

[darth_chasm]

Pics of your actual wiring job would be better. Good quality, hi rez if possible.

[Jacobpac]

I don't know how anyone will be able to make heads or tails of these pics. I have dismantled everything and put it together 3 times. Red led stays on in off position and blue led does not come on anymore unless I disconnect red. This worked great initially without problems...

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[FenixFire]

I don't know how anyone will be able to make heads or tails of these pics. I have dismantled everything and put it together 3 times. Red led stays on in off position and blue led does not come on anymore unless I disconnect red. This worked great initially without problems...

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Did you initially have heat shrink, or have you always had electrical tape?

I had a similar issue, Red and Blue would alternate intensity and either might shut down completely. After some trouble shooting i discovered it was only when the hilt was assembled and the blade holder/body were pressed tight. So assumption was the connections for the resistors were being compressed too much and despite being heat shrinked were shorting out against each other. I cut the old heat shrink off, shortened the wires slightly and the wire leads on the resistors then reconnected with new heat shrink. The second time i doubled up, normal 2:1 shrink on the wire connection starting tight to the resistor and extending about a .06" onto the shielded wire. Then a piece of 4:1 shrink that was just big enough to force the end of the resistor into and extending about 1/2 of the smaller shrink.

The heat shrink shields the connection as well as provides strain relief for the connections. It is better than tape that can easily slip or roll. Its also available at most all hardware stores at least in my area.

[Greenie]

Pretty much what FenixFire said. If you're cramming that into a saber as it is, you're gonna have problems. I would check no pads have been bridged on the board (gently slide/push the blade of an exactoknife between the pads). After that I would suggest a full rewire using heat shrink of various sizes. You can even heat shrink the whole resistor

[Jacobpac]

Great ideas! I'll try it and let you know what happens. Thx!