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Thread: Girot's TFA Graflex

  1. #1

    Default Girot's TFA Graflex

    "The Force Awakens" Graflex 2.0 Build Thread

    I know there are a lot of these threads going up but there are a lot of perspective padawans out there who like browsing through thread after thread. I also wanted somewhere I could keep a record of activity so I don't lose track. My intention is to build a film accurate "shelf queen" to keep my Sakabato company. At this time I do not intend to do a crystal chamber, but that may change if I end up custom machining a chassis for this build.

    HILT
    Graflex 2.0 by Korbanth
    7/8" Trans White Blade by Vader's Vault
    7/8" Graflex Blade Plug by KR Sabers

    CHASSIS
    Decided not to overdo it and picked up the popular GOTH Knight Chassis from Shapeways.

    ELECTRONICS
    Nano Biscotte v3
    Modified 7/8" Tri-Cree Star: Blue/RoyalBlue/White
    28mm Premium Speaker
    3.7v 3400mAh 18650 PCB Rechargeable Li-Ion Cell (building my own)
    Recharge Port
    Momentary Switch (came with the Korbanth kit)
    Last edited by girot; 03-04-2016 at 06:29 PM.

  2. #2

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    SPEAKER
    So after playing with the math I figured out that 7/8" converts to 0.875" which converts to 22.225mm. This means that the 20mm (0.79") speaker will fit perfectly into the Graflex 2.0

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by girot View Post
    SPEAKER
    So after playing with the math I figured out that 7/8" converts to 0.875" which converts to 22.225mm. This means that the 20mm (0.79") speaker will fit perfectly into the Graflex 2.0
    Lower part of the hilt is about 1.25" in diameter, only the blade holder is 7/8" in diameter. So you can use a 28mm speaker no problem in this build. I personally used the 2w 28mm premium in my Graflex 2.0.

  4. #4

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    that's a handsome saber you got there!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoninBJJ View Post
    Lower part of the hilt is about 1.25" in diameter, only the blade holder is 7/8" in diameter. So you can use a 28mm speaker no problem in this build. I personally used the 2w 28mm premium in my Graflex 2.0.
    Aaaaahhh, I see. There is an annoying lack of metrics for the G2.0 kit floating around out there. I am going to measure the crap out of mine and post all the dirty details here.

  6. #6

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    So I couldn't wait until this weekend to open my new kit. Took about half an hour to get it assembled in TFA configuration. Here are my first, 100% honest and unbiased, impressions:

    PROS:
    1) Very, very close to a vintage graflex. I compared mine side by side and was very pleased with how close they are.
    2) It feels and looks fantastic in hand. I can’t wait to get my saber stand in so I can put both sabers on display together.
    3) Extremely easy to assemble. I took my time but if I weren’t also watching TV while I was working I could have fully assembled any version of the hilt in less than 10 minutes.

    CONS:
    1) The blade retention screw and socket hole threads do not match. While I cannot rethread the screw I can retap the hole in the blade socket. Easy fix.
    2) The clamp ring is kokeyed and because it is also significantly thinner than the real thing it’s almost too fragile to bend it into place. I’m sure it wouldn’t be a big deal when wearing the saber as part of a costume but when its purpose is to look pretty on a shelf these are the sorts of little things that really damage its presentation.
    3) The Kobalt D-ring looks almost like its chrome plated. Not sure if this is canon or what but I’m not a fan of chrome.
    4) All of the small bits seem REALLY thin and fragile. Again, this is definitely going to be a show only piece.
    5) The blade socket/upper chassis is a straight shot all the way through. There is no hard stop for the blade, blade plug, and nothing whatsoever to mount electronics to. As much as it hurts me to admit it I am going to have to get a printed chassis for this thing.

    CONCLUSION:
    I really like this kit. Aesthetically it is a beautiful kit. The detailing is film accurate enough to impress anybody but the scruffiest of nurf herders. That being said I wouldn’t dar attempt to spar with mine. In the end this build is going to cost about $400 and I have no desire to invest in repair work once it’s complete. I admit I was surprised at what its actual skill level was once I got it open and started working on it. For someone looking for a non-functional prop or those seeking a display piece this is an excellent novice-level kit. For those looking to “finish” the saber by installing electronics this is an advanced-level kit.

  7. #7

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    I bit the bullet and ordered a GOTH Knight Chassis (including NB cage). Looking at it and pouring over the instructions I've yet to figure out where the heck I'm supposed to mount my LED module... Does anybody have any guidance on this?

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by girot View Post
    So I couldn't wait until this weekend to open my new kit. Took about half an hour to get it assembled in TFA configuration. Here are my first, 100% honest and unbiased, impressions:

    PROS:
    1) Very, very close to a vintage graflex. I compared mine side by side and was very pleased with how close they are.
    2) It feels and looks fantastic in hand. I can’t wait to get my saber stand in so I can put both sabers on display together.
    3) Extremely easy to assemble. I took my time but if I weren’t also watching TV while I was working I could have fully assembled any version of the hilt in less than 10 minutes.

    CONS:
    1) The blade retention screw and socket hole threads do not match. While I cannot rethread the screw I can retap the hole in the blade socket. Easy fix.
    2) The clamp ring is kokeyed and because it is also significantly thinner than the real thing it’s almost too fragile to bend it into place. I’m sure it wouldn’t be a big deal when wearing the saber as part of a costume but when its purpose is to look pretty on a shelf these are the sorts of little things that really damage its presentation.
    3) The Kobalt D-ring looks almost like its chrome plated. Not sure if this is canon or what but I’m not a fan of chrome.
    4) All of the small bits seem REALLY thin and fragile. Again, this is definitely going to be a show only piece.
    5) The blade socket/upper chassis is a straight shot all the way through. There is no hard stop for the blade, blade plug, and nothing whatsoever to mount electronics to. As much as it hurts me to admit it I am going to have to get a printed chassis for this thing.

    CONCLUSION:
    I really like this kit. Aesthetically it is a beautiful kit. The detailing is film accurate enough to impress anybody but the scruffiest of nurf herders. That being said I wouldn’t dar attempt to spar with mine. In the end this build is going to cost about $400 and I have no desire to invest in repair work once it’s complete. I admit I was surprised at what its actual skill level was once I got it open and started working on it. For someone looking for a non-functional prop or those seeking a display piece this is an excellent novice-level kit. For those looking to “finish” the saber by installing electronics this is an advanced-level kit.
    That's funny cuz I thought from other people's reviews that it was sturdier then a real graflex. Gotta wait for mine and see what's up

    Do you think that the different batches are made differently ?

  9. #9

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    The hilt body is MUCH sturdier. It's the little pieces that are thinner. Based on what I'm seeing it looked like those bits are cast from molds instead of machined so that could explain it.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by girot View Post
    The hilt body is MUCH sturdier. It's the little pieces that are thinner. Based on what I'm seeing it looked like those bits are cast from molds instead of machined so that could explain it.
    Ahh I see! maybe machining new parts is an option.. love to see pics of your build

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