Anyone familiar with SF hilts?

[Kouri]

Not entirely sure what your problem is. 12mm momentary switches aren't overly long.

1" LED heatsink up front. Blue/Green/Green Tri-Cree if not getting a Prizm board. 12mm AV switch. Momentary-to-latching converter, if you're building a stunt. For the second switch hole, drill out the plug for a recharge port or use a second switch for a board that supports Aux input. 18650 lithium-ion to power the setup.

[Tirreg_Kolar]

I may have found a solution. One of the problems I've run into it that the blade holder doesn't come off the hilt, my guess is SF does some weird thing with their builds, idk. The problem was that it seems that TCSS LED modules are designed to sit inside the threads between the blade holder and the rest of the saber, meaning the whole thing is wider than 1 inch, which is all the room I'm gonna get at that end. Ultrasabers has a 1 inch led module that may work, which I'lprobably end up using unless I'm totally missing one from TCSS, haha.

[NanoRex]

The MHS V2 LED module has a 1.025" OD with a 1.175" lip on the back. If you machined the lip off, it might work.

[Kouri]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/He...ole-P1011.aspx

I mean, you'll need to assemble your own LED unit anyway to get a custom LED n there.

[Ty_Bomber]

The MHS V2 LED module has a 1.025" OD with a 1.175" lip on the back. If you machined the lip off, it might work.

It doesn't. I tried it this weekend, thinking I was so clever, and machined through the thing before I got to 1"

[NanoRex]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/He...ole-P1011.aspx

I mean, you'll need to assemble your own LED unit anyway to get a custom LED n there.

This is probably your best option; you could simply drill and tap a small hole in the hilt for a retaining screw. I didn't even know the store had those.

It doesn't. I tried it this weekend, thinking I was so clever, and machined through the thing before I got to 1"

This is the MHS V2 one you're talking about? The MHS V1 LED module is much larger (1.13" OD).

[Tirreg_Kolar]

[QUOTE=NanoRex;253553]This is probably your best option; you could simply drill and tap a small hole in the hilt for a retaining screw. I didn't even know the store had those.

I must've missed those when I was searching TCSS for the parts. Definitely a cheaper option than the UltraSabers module! It should work, assuming that it isn't wider than 1 inch. Luckily there is already a set screw in there (I guess this is how SF does their LED module installs) so I'll do exactly what you said, make a small hole in the LED module and put the screw through there.

[Tirreg_Kolar]

The 18500 Li-Ion single cell battery should work for what I'm doing, right? Just basic saber with sound, maybe flash on clash if I'm lucky, haha. Not planning on doing an aux. switch at the moment, but if the nano biscotti supports it I'll work it into the plan.

Also, the inside diameter of the grip section is right at 1.25, actually just a bit under. The MHSV1 Chassis parts are 1.25 inches, should I use those and lightly sand them down till they fit or should I use the MHSV2 chassis parts and just fill the space?

Also, I had a thought with the switch mounts. If I get the activation box style 21 without switch holes and then get a 12 mm av switch hole put in it and another hole for a small aux. (assuming a NB will support aux. functions) I could use the existing holes to run the wires through and get a little bit more room. Thoughts?

[NanoRex]

The NB doesn't support an aux switch. I suggest reading the manual a couple times before you start planning your electronics. As for the LED module, you should be able to retain it simply with pressure from a set screw; you shouldn't need to make an additional hole in the LED module (although you could if something doesn't work out). I would use the MHS V1 chassis parts.

[Tirreg_Kolar]

Gotcha. The NB does support accent LEDs, right?