My understanding is it should take 12mm AV switches.
My understanding is it should take 12mm AV switches.
the things i'm most worried about are the length of the switches and actually tightening the nuts on them, what with the smaller diameter in that area.
IMG_2658.jpg
idk if you'll be able to see it, but that's what I mean
"I don't believe it!"
"That is why you fail."
it is a shorter distance from the emitter end, I could probably slowly tighten them from that end. would the nuts fit in that space?
"I don't believe it!"
"That is why you fail."
The nuts should fit into the space; I've fit 16mm nuts through TCSS chokes before on the way down to where they go (switch went through the choke threads, so it had to be connected after the pieces were screwed together), and tightened them with a long screwdriver to rotate them. Took some time but it worked out fine.
Some hilt designs don't leave much room room fur the nut. The builder is typically mass producing sabers and chooses to just hot-glue the switch in place. For those hilts, one trick I've heard from DIYers is to wrap the threads in electrical tape and friction-fit the switch in place.
Not sure how well this would apply to your specific brand of hilt though.
Last edited by Kouri; 01-28-2016 at 02:48 AM.
The electrical tape trick might work. I'll have to get the parts and see for myself. If the battery doesn't fit, I might have to just use a single switch setup or an extension (if I can manage to find one that would fit the threads on my hilt)
"I don't believe it!"
"That is why you fail."
Also, what led colors should I use in the tri-cree led to get mint green (or something similar)?
"I don't believe it!"
"That is why you fail."
Tirreg... The trick you're looking for here is actually pretty simple. Wire your switches up. Make sure the wires are cut long enough that they stick out of the end of the saber once the switches are inserted. Lay a hair dryer on high, or a heat gun on your work surface. Twist the wires from the switch tightly, then run then back and forth through the hot air stream from the hair dryer/heat gun for about a minute to a minute and a half. Then keep them under tension until they cool down. The wires will now hold the twist. Insert the switches into the switch holes. Thread the wire twist for each switch through the nut for that switch. You can now use the wires to guide the nut onto the switch. At this point, get a regular, cheap wooden pencil, and use the eraser end to turn the nut until you get it as tight as you can.
So, it seems that the place where I was planning on mounting my LED module has an internal diameter of only 1 inch, which subsequently means that the switch section is only 1/2 to 3/4 inch internal diameter. Wondering if I should just sell the hilt to someone who wants it for a prop or if there is another path I can take with this build. Any ideas?
"I don't believe it!"
"That is why you fail."
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