What are you thinking in terms of keeping the heat sink in place? I thought about using the glass eye as a holder and getting a longer allen screw to replace the one above the glass eye as a blade retention. I'm looking for better ideas if you have any.
I'm just going to drill and tap a 4-40 thread on the grenade section below the glass eye...heres a similar idea taken from darth_ryoOriginally Posted by Ben-cut-first
I have got my heat sink ready to roll, where are you all (anyone building a graflex) planning on putting an activation switch?
Nice! my activation switch will be the red button on top. I haven't seen it, but I hear that the activation switch may need a spacer in between the button and the actual switch on the saber..I haven't tackled that yet, but it shouldn't be a problem.
...but, if your using the circuit board (instead of the bubbles) I hear theres a really cool touch activated switch but cant really remember for the life of me where to find it...and theres even someone who made one of the bubbles on the clamp a hidden switch (saw that on an anakin AOTC saber)...theres also a way to place a hidden switch on the ends of the clamp box...but I think the standard red switch will work just fine for me.
I had to go out of town for work and won't be back for a few weeks so no building for me...just fun researching and brainstorming ideas and planning for the saber.
but so far I have all the parts needed...except for the damn 28mm bass speaker...seems like TCSS never has it in stock so I went ahead and got a similar 8ohm 2w model train speaker in 27mm for the meantime. (however, I did see that the 27mm speaker has 3mm extra of cone travel so maybe theres more frequency response curves that will favor the 27mm over the 28mm but who knows since I really have no experience with either of them.
I also ordered another saber from korbanth (an obi wan kenobi from episode 4) that should be making its production run soon...so thats in the works for the future...most likely ill use a crystal focus on that one and a royal blue/royal blue/red FOC setup
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also, can't wait until there is a good TFA sound font for the graflex...
I have a similar build thread on fxsabers.com look for me there for a more detailed build list... the thread is named similarly.
Last edited by erlomd; 02-22-2016 at 06:50 PM.
I want to make the switch the red button at the top as well. I'm building TFA saber. You will need some sort of buffer, i was thinking like a bb or something. I have seen the touch activation switch from a link myself but also do not remember where. Are you using RB/RB/W in your graflex as well? I am using RB/B/W. Just wondering what resistor you got for the RB if you did.
I have always loved Kenobi's saber! I still have the toy from my childhood, along with both of anakin's and Darth Mauls of course haha. The next saber I would eventually like to get is Luke's from Return of the Jedi.
Also, i think Shameem made a custom TFA sound font, but I am sure you saw that. I assume you are wanting a real ripped version from the movie when it comes out, I can't blame you there.
Safe travels while you are away for work!
Last edited by Ben-cut-first; 02-22-2016 at 08:11 PM.
Parks does the touch-activated switch plates. Also you can find the little 3D printed tactile switch holders for the graflex clamp somewhere on the IRA forums I believe.
thanks bud!
look out for korbanths new run of sabers then...he has a luke ROTJ version coming up as well as other bad to the bone sabers...my bank account is going to love me
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Last edited by erlomd; 02-25-2016 at 06:42 PM.
https://youtu.be/FKjL7de2k6U
It only took 3 hours, but here is my progress! So happy it all worked on the first try!
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Great Job!!! just like a pro!
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