Building my first Graflex...now what?

[BZWingZero]

Each LED will need its own resistor. And each color will need a different resistor based on the forward voltage.

If it truly is a tri-cree, each die can be run at 1000mA.

[erlomd]

Each LED will need its own resistor. And each color will need a different resistor based on the forward voltage.

If it truly is a tri-cree, each die can be run at 1000mA.

Thanks! just what I wanted to know...Supposedly it is a tri-cree xp that has been modified to fit the 7/8 diameter heatsink required on these reproduction graflexs

However, I did see that a "buck puck" takes the place of the resistors and actually gives each LED a consistent flow of power without a lot of calculations needed.
Im quoting this from another forum:

"The easiest and most simple way to describe the difference is to say that a resistor is a simplex or simple function device and a buck puck is multiplex or a multiple function device.

A resistor establishes a set value to create a voltage drop, but this changes with the input voltage...a simple matter of in's and out's...the process of the voltage drop diverts the excess energy as heat...age/heat will change the value of the resistor.

A buck puck or buck converter is balanced stepper circuit that provides an efficient conversion/distribution of energy...minimal heat...stable output as long as the input falls within the established range which is usually quite generous.

So in regards to light sabering the resistor will provide less stable, less accurate, and just less function than a buck step converter which can do more, better, with less."

if this is true, I think ill get me a buck puck and run each LED at 1000mA with that thing. 938.jpg

Now the question is...do I need a 4 wire? or a 6 wire? Im guessing I need a 6 wire, since there should be 2 wires coming out of each LED once wired? (I have not received my LED's in the mail yet) or maybe thats not necessary since I could just join all 3 ground wires to one wire and use a 4 wire buck puck?
since I would like the "clash" effect, I'm guessing now that I would probably need the 6 wire buck puck so that the each LED runs independently from each other when the "clashing/flickering" effect is running?

by the way...nice quote!

[Silver Serpent]

The 6 wire version has two wires dedicated to a dimming function. You typically attach a potentiometer (think volume control knob) to those wires, and you can adjust brightness with it.

The BuckPuck will run a single LED die more efficiently than using a resistor, but it has a number of tradeoffs.
1. A BuckPuck is a LOT more expensive than a resistor.
2. A BuckPuck takes up a lot more room than a resistor
3. A BuckPuck needs a minimum of 5v to operate properly. You'll need at least 4x alkalines, or 2x li-ion cells to run it.
4. A BuckPuck is not compatible/not needed with any sound boards sold at TCSS. If you intend to put a sound board in your saber at a later time, the BuckPuck is going to be unused after the upgrade. They're really only good for stunt (soundless) sabers.

[erlomd]

The 6 wire version has two wires dedicated to a dimming function. You typically attach a potentiometer (think volume control knob) to those wires, and you can adjust brightness with it.

The BuckPuck will run a single LED die more efficiently than using a resistor, but it has a number of tradeoffs.
1. A BuckPuck is a LOT more expensive than a resistor.
2. A BuckPuck takes up a lot more room than a resistor
3. A BuckPuck needs a minimum of 5v to operate properly. You'll need at least 4x alkalines, or 2x li-ion cells to run it.
4. A BuckPuck is not compatible/not needed with any sound boards sold at TCSS. If you intend to put a sound board in your saber at a later time, the BuckPuck is going to be unused after the upgrade. They're really only good for stunt (soundless) sabers.

Thanks so much silver serpent! after I posted it, I found out something along the same lines as what you said.
So, i guess the best bet then is to do individual resistors at 1000mA each

[erlomd]

Does this look right?
says I need a 1ohms resistor for each LED

Screen Shot 2016-01-18 at 8.50.15 PM.jpg

[erlomd]

I emailed vaders vault to find out what he was running on his super bright sun crusher blades...if it was with a led driver or resistors...hes said neither...hes running his tri-crees through a sound board....but thats all he told me which was very nice of him...so I'm guessing what he means by sound board is like a crouton sound board possibly?

[Silver Serpent]

That's very likely. He uses a lot of Plecter boards, many of which have LED drivers built in. Petit Crouton, Crystal Focus, etc.

[erlomd]

I saw that there is a new Nano Biscotte v3 that has a "flash on clash" feature which I wanted for the biscotte v2...
does anyone know if the difference between the v2 and v3 is that the v3 does not need a power extender to augment the brightness when flash on clash is operating?

if so, I think ill just stick to the nano biscotte v2 and buy the power extender for $5 extra.
There may be other differences with the v3 in that it may have improved sound, improved motion detection etc...in that case ill just wait for the v3

Also, since the "flash on clash" makes the LED's brighter for an instant, can you just wire it up so that they are that bright all the time? and have no flash on clash?

[rlobrecht]

Plecter Labs posted all the details at fx-sabers. http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=48177.0

Elimated pex, better deep sleep, new motion sensor

[erlomd]

Plecter Labs posted all the details at fx-sabers. http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=48177.0

Elimated pex, better deep sleep, new motion sensor

Thanks! I emailed plecter labs to find out when he will have more stock available (as if no now else does right? ) if it becomes too long of a wait time, ill just order the ever popular v2 with the power extender