Basic Stunt Saber with MWS parts (Wiring Check)

[pudly]

Ok I am trying to do the least soldering as possible. Will the wiring work with these parts for a no-sound stunt saber?:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4A...nt--P1010.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cr...dule-P998.aspx (Green, when it's in stock)
and
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...ckel-P901.aspx

Like this with female-to-female jst connections between the male mws connectors?
saber wiring pud.jpg

Is this right or wrong?

[Generic Jedi]

That's not how it works. The switch wire with the resistor (the purple thing in the diagram) goes to the LED in the switch. It has a positive lead and a negative lead, and both have to be connected to a power source to light up your switch.

The main LED is powered the same way. It has to have both positive and negative leads connected to a battery. You put the switch on either the positive wire or negative wire.

Basically, the power from the battery (called current) moves through the wire to one leg of the switch. The switch itself is either open (no power), or closed (power! unlimited power!). If it's closed the current flows out of the other leg of the switch, and on to the LED.

The battery black wire connects with the LED blue wire.
The battery red wire connects with the switch red wire.
The switch black wire connects with the LED white wire.

The switch LED wires (purple thing again) won't connect with anything without a little bit of soldering.

[pudly]

So all pre-wired jst connectors don't help me at all and everything needs to be soldered?
So like this?saber wiring pud 02.jpg

Am I getting close?

[Silver Serpent]

That diagram is functional, but the switch LED will be on all the time. If you want the switch LED to turn on and off with the blade, connect the switch LED (+) to the other side of the switch (the black wire that connects to your main LED (+) )

[Cire Yeldarb]

So all pre-wired jst connectors don't help me at all and everything needs to be soldered?

The pre-wired parts are more for sound builds than stunts and are setup to snap right into the pre-wired soundboards.

[pudly]

The positive switch wire with the DynaOhm resistor on it?

I guess it doesn't help me that they are pre-wired and I have no idea what color cables are hooked to, on the av switch NC1, NO1, C1...

[Generic Jedi]

You could use the MWS BuckPuck. It has connectors for the main LED, the switch, the switch LED, and the battery. Also, you won't need a resistor for the main LED.

[pudly]

That sounds awesome. Thanks

[pudly]

Ok Just for next time I make a saber. is this correct?
saber wiring pud 03.jpg
EDIT: forgot the resistor

[Silver Serpent]

It's mostly correct. You've got some things colored oddly, so I'll do my best.

The wire on the left of your switch that runs to your battery (+) should be one of the switch terminals.
The wire on the right of your switch that runs to the LEDs (+) should be the other switch terminal.
The wire on the left bottom of your switch should be the switch LED (-).
The wire on the right bottom of your switch should be the switch LED (+).

The resistor you added in needs to be moved. The main LED resistor needs to go after the splice, closer to the main LED. Put it at the junction of the white and black wires in your diagram.
You also need a resistor on your switch LED. Put that one on the bottom right of your switch, on the black wire directly below where you have one right now.

As a note: all the wire segments on the right side of your switch should probably be red. They're all running (+). You'll end up with 3 red wires and 1 black wire attached to the switch.