So, I was browsing and have seen a video of someone put the switches in the clamp on the edges that face the edges of the saber, and don't actually use that button as the switch. You can see in this photoimage.jpg
So, I was browsing and have seen a video of someone put the switches in the clamp on the edges that face the edges of the saber, and don't actually use that button as the switch. You can see in this photoimage.jpg
Hiding the switches in or near the clamp is a good work around, but those darn buttons should work! I'm thinking of using putty to adjust the internal depth of the red part of the button and adhere it to the tip of the black momentary. Then the next issue is a canal for the wiring since it seems the blade would run right into the switch wire.
Posted a Q in the padawan area of FX SABERS. Anyone heard of any work-arounds yet?
two others I have seen involve altering one of the bubbles on the bubble card as your momentary, but that would be pretty hard and time consuming IMO. for ESB/TFA model, they make that activation card a touch pad, which is really cool, but again... seems a bit harder. I like the putty idea myself. One thing that I wonder too is if they're actually intended to be placed there. The cite shows the switches next to the activation cards and bubble strip... both of which go near the clamp. it never advertises them with the actual buttons... But I too would be interested in what others have seen.
OK, I've got two solutions. When I finish the build I'll post pics . You can fit a 28G wire BETWEEN the outer casing and the inner chassis. It can be run all the way from the momentary under the red button down to the threading on the inner ROTJ piece. The you have to choose to either drill a hole to thread it into the lower chassis, or run it OUTSIDE of the entire saber through the lower cutouts.
I'm gonna run it outside since I want the entire thing to remain intact for future work, collecting, or even resale (doubtful).
The wire can be hidden in the split in the clamp and run back into the lower half through the pre drilled holes for attaching the grip. Now the problem is that the saber is fixed in the center, unless you use a small JST connector that can slip through the grip hole. Since the bottom unscrews, inner chassis work can still be done and access is still available.
That's one!
For the second switch I realized that the ESB style circuit board part for the clamp is really a touch switch, with your finger completing the circuit (look on the back). That makes it easy and super cool!
So there you go. No drillin, chillin, and thrillin like a villain.
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If you got the 2.0 graflex dosent the button have connectors to wore on it already??
The button is different than the "switch". I love the "how to create brass switches" tutorial I read here recently, and the solution to attaching the brass component to the momentary is the opposite of this prob. In the case of the brass it can be screwed on because the thread tunnel on the brass head is narrower than the activation component on the momentary. In this case (G2.0), the channel inside the button is larger than the momentary. It just drops all of the way on and no clicky-clicky, sticky-sticky.
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