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Thread: meditations on saber 01-01

  1. #1

    Default meditations on saber 01-01

    Hello.

    I am pretty new to saber building, so new in fact I don't have any parts yet (which is a good thing for me right now), and I have run into my first technical hitch and I would like your opinions on my theoretical solution!

    I wanted to cast aside tradition and build a saber with a mid-mounted 28mm bass speaker oriented towards the blade, with an MHS choke (ventilated of course) as the sound path (using a partial shroud as a resonance chamber). However, using the MHS speaker mount conventionally would basically end the wiring continuity from that point on, meaning the LED board would be cut off from literally everything else inside. As well as this, it would collide with the 16mm AV main switch. I did think about routing out areas of handle and pushing the cabling outside under the shroud, but given the number of threaded sections that would have to line up through the cuts, I deemed this method no good. My second idea was to revert to tradition and put the speaker into the hilt, sacrificing all my genious!!! This would be the top solution but the pommel plate I'm gunning for is a mount for both a recharge port and RICE port, so there needs to be space again for wires this way too. I considered swapping the middle hilt section around to have the buttons at the very end of the saber, but it felt weird and un-ergonomic.

    I was at the end of the line, about to leave the crystal cave and give up my jedi training when I thought of this glorious solution; what about an angled speaker mount? Of course it'd be a horrible Frankenstein piece of chassis, with a partially butchered V5 speaker mount holding the rig in place, a v4 speaker mount trimmed down as far as it can go, or a fully custom moulded speaker holder hotglued to the v5 mount and then backed by a chassis disc to keep it from being torn apart by it's own weight. But by my estimation, there is plenty of 'wiggle' in the speaker's dimensions (to the point that it is possible to have it mounted fully perpendicularly!).

    But enough of what I think, do you think I'm mad? do you think there's an even easier way? can you save me some time and money :>?

    [EDIT]

    What about a slotted PVC pipe?!
    Last edited by Manadono; 01-10-2016 at 06:05 PM. Reason: my brain works on a different time frame :/

  2. #2

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    People route around speaker holders all the time to wire recharge ports in the pommel insert. There are a couple of different approaches, but the most common is to simply cut a wiring notch in one edge of the speaker holder. You only have to pass three wires for a recharge port. If you use a thin wire, it's not that difficult, and the mods to the speaker holder can be made with a utility knife.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by BartElroy View Post
    People route around speaker holders all the time to wire recharge ports in the pommel insert. There are a couple of different approaches, but the most common is to simply cut a wiring notch in one edge of the speaker holder. You only have to pass three wires for a recharge port. If you use a thin wire, it's not that difficult, and the mods to the speaker holder can be made with a utility knife.
    I was wondering if it was possible, thanks for clearing that up!

  4. #4
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    (img)
    yeah, I asked a guy if this would be an idea and he looked at me like "man, I don't think you should be doing that" , but I though it'd be okay... thanks

  6. #6

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    He's probably one of those people who don't think about modding pieces as they come from the store.

    I (and many other sabersmiths) am the opposite. I look at a part from the store and think about what I can do to it and make it better. We've been routing around speaker mounts for quite some time. I'm surprised that Tim hasn't started adding wiring channels into the speaker mounts already.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    I (and many other sabersmiths) am the opposite. I look at a part from the store and think about what I can do to it and make it better. We've been routing around speaker mounts for quite some time. I'm surprised that Tim hasn't started adding wiring channels into the speaker mounts already.
    All these little bits of reassurance are great guys, but we're three posts into 'you can cut channels into the speaker mount okey dokey'. While I am super grateful to know it won't significantly impact the integrity of the mount, it doesn't solve the problem of the switch being in the way of the mounting area.

    Do you have any experience with mounting speakers in sabers at odd angles (probably between 60 and 35 degrees) at all? Or do you know the clearance dimensions around the back of the speaker and mount? I mean, if there's enough of a gap between the cone and the housing that there's no problem cutting a hole and sitting a short AV switch back end in there when it's in activation box 18 on top of the saber, while still having enough room to thread in the 4 wires for the button and LED, it'd be cool. Otherwise I'll have to get creative...

    Would diagrams help?

  8. #8
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manadono View Post
    Would diagrams help?
    Yes, that would help.

  9. #9

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    Clean image for reference


    Red - speaker mount (default)
    Orange - speaker (default)
    Aqua - speaker mount (proposed)
    Burgandy - speaker (proposed, approximate)
    Navy - AV switch ends (predicted)

    sorry for paint, it's 2am

  10. #10
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    The male end of chokes are now opened up to 1.25". Threaded areas are .625" deep. Speaker mount v4 is .75" deep.

    Rather than using speaker mount v5 up there, you could use v4 and slide it further up into the male end of the choke. Possibly tighten the button spacing a little and scoot them down a bit, and you may be good. Then use a locking disc at the pommel end.

    Its funny you brought up the angled mounting. Another member and I were PM'ing about the same thing just a couple of days ago .

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