Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 29

Thread: NBV3 Schematic check please

  1. #11

    Default

    There are three different equations you can use to find the wattage rating for a resiter. If you use the correct values in the correct places, they will all give the same answer.

    P = power measured in watts
    E = voltage measured in volts
    I = current measured in amps
    R = resistance measured in ohms

    Equation 1: P = R x I^2
    You take the resitor value from the resitor equation and multiply it by current squared.

    Equation 2: P = E x I
    You take the voltage (that's voltage supply minus LED voltage forward, just like in the resistor equation) and multiply it by current.

    Equation 3: It uses the values for E and R to find P, but I don't remember the equation. I'll have to look it up when I get home.

  2. #12

    Default

    Say you wanted to find a resistor for an accent LED that has a forward voltage of 3 volts to run at 20 mA. You use a 3.3 volt pad to power it.

    For the resistor: R = (supply voltage - forward voltage) / current
    That gives you: R = ( 3.3 - 3 ) / 0.02 = 15 Ohms

    To find the wattage
    Equation 1: P = R x I^2
    Or : P = 15 x 0.02^2 = 0.006 watts

    Equation 2: P = E x I
    Or: P = ( 3.3 - 3 ) x 0.02 = 0.006 watts

    You would still have to round the watt value up to a resistor you could actually find...

  3. #13

    Default

    The third equation is: P = E^2 / R
    E is voltage supply minus forward voltage: P = (Vsupply -Vforward)^2 / R

    That gives us: P = ( 3.3 - 3 )^2 / 15 = 0.006 watts

  4. #14

    Default

    The question I have now is silly, but its another tiny detail I am having trouble finding. If you look at the junction from the Momentary switch black wire to the Negative line going from the Recharge port to the Board Negative pad, do I just solder that at the negative post on the recharge port or straight to the board negative pad with the negative wire from the recharge Port? That would seem to be the same anyways, but I want to do it correctly when I do finally get the board. Thanks!

  5. #15

    Default

    Whichever is easier for you. I find it's more difficult soldering a bunch of wires to the pad on the board, so I opt for the other method.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #16

    Default

    Ok great , thanks for the input SS! I figured it was most likely the same, but youre right, the more space I can free up on the pads the better!

  7. #17

    Default

    great wiring diagram!

    but, I was told that resistors for each LED are not needed when connecting to the NBv3?

  8. #18

  9. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    I did...but on page 21 of the NBv3 manual it says & I quote:

    "On the one hand, such a small resistor is unpractical to source and tolerance will not
    lead to an accurate current limitation. On the other hand, not using a resistor will
    overdrive the LED which might fry. The board driver can act as a linear, configurable
    resistor, using the drive parameter. When getting such a small resistor value (below
    0.5 ohm, AND Vled < Vcell), the drive can be calculated as follows:
    drive = 1023 * (Vled / Vcell)
    in our case, drive = 1023 * (3.45 / 3.7) = 954
    The drive parameters can be also fine tuned using an amp-meter in the high-power
    LED circuit: adjust the drive until you reach the exact average current required for
    your LED. Never set the drive under 80% of the maximum value."

  10. #20

    Default

    Always use a resistor!!!
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •