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Thread: First Build-Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sith4Life View Post
    Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.
    Yeah I have watched his review multiple times. That blade plug is probably around 2-3 inches which means that LED module sits about where the blade holder chokes just before the ribbed section. So he must of drilled and tapped the holder. As far as opening a window for the switch wires to go I don't see any other way to have an active red button with out doing this mod. But as soon as you hear back from him please let us know.

    Quote Originally Posted by UteOH View Post
    According to the detailed instructions that are published by the guy who designed my chassis, opening a window in the blade holder is necessary. If you find a less destructive option, Sith4life, I would love to hear it!

    Btw, the inner diameter of the hilt is different at the level of the internal blade holder and below. Which measurements do you need?

    I have been seeing lots of variability on resistor values.

    Ronin, you and I are using the same TriCree from Justin.
    I tracked down the specs from Cree here: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr.../XLampXPE2.pdf

    All three of the XP E2 LED's have a forward current of 1000mA.

    At that voltage, here are the forward voltages of the various colors:
    Green: 3.7 V
    Royal blue: 3.4 V
    Red: 2.65 V

    The Prizm sound board sends the entire voltage of the power supply to the main LED's via a common anode.
    I am using a 18500 at 3.7 V
    So the required resistors are:
    Green: none.
    Royal blue: R=3.7-3.4/1=0.3; P=0.3 * 1^2=0.3W, so 0.3 ohms @ 0.3 W (rounding up to 0.47 ohms @ 0.5 W available in the store).
    Red: R=3.7-2.65/1=1.05/1=1.05ohms @ 1.05 ohms (rounding up to 1.2 ohms @ 3 W available in the store).

    You guys agree with the calculations?
    I would double check with Justin on the forward voltage.

    This is the info taken directly from his website:
    llumination Color: Red
    Wavelength: 630 nm
    Luminous Intensity: -
    Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 80.6 lm
    If - Forward Current: 350 mA
    Vf - Forward Voltage: 2.1 V
    Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
    Power Rating: 3.5 W

    info for the GREENS
    Product Category: High Power LEDs - Single Color
    RoHS: RoHS Compliant Details
    Illumination Color: Green
    Wavelength: 535 nm
    Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 130 lm
    If - Forward Current: 350 mA
    Vf - Forward Voltage: 3.7 V
    Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
    Power Rating: 3 W

    Info for the Royal Blue

    Illumination Color: Royal Blue
    Wavelength: 465 nm
    Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 625 mW
    If - Forward Current: 350 mA
    Vf - Forward Voltage: 3.1 V
    Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
    Power Rating: 3 W

    Here is the info from the link you provided:


    So there are two different Red and Blue LEDs that have different forward voltage characteristics. One rated at 350mA and the other for 1000mA. Looking at the info Justin provided on his website the forward voltage is 350mA not 1000mA. Which I did not account for either... I messaged him right now to see what the deal is; If I am correct in my assumption than my resistor value would be 1.7ohm 1.3w, after rounding 2ohm 1w resistor, instead of my original resistor of 0.47ohm 0.5w.

    UPDATE: Justin got back to me and he said it is fine to be run at 1amp (1000mA) so no change for me!
    Last edited by RoninBJJ; 01-16-2016 at 09:37 AM.

  2. #42

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    I will go with Justin's (more conservative) numbers as well. It can't hurt dropping the forward voltage a bit, running fewer amps through the LED's. Cooler temps, longer life, perhaps. I can live with slightly less brightness.

  3. #43

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    Still waiting on the last few parts to arrive. I received a message from Shameem about the graflex he built, and yes he did have to open a window/hole in the blade holder in order to wire the red button. So... Looks like I got some dremel work I need to start working on. Once I receive the rest of my part I will start posting pics, or perhaps a video of the build while I do it.

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoninBJJ View Post
    Still waiting on the last few parts to arrive. I received a message from Shameem about the graflex he built, and yes he did have to open a window/hole in the blade holder in order to wire the red button. So... Looks like I got some dremel work I need to start working on. Once I receive the rest of my part I will start posting pics, or perhaps a video of the build while I do it.
    Makes sense, I dont have my kit yet this week. So is the button an actual button you can wire?

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sith4Life View Post
    Makes sense, I dont have my kit yet this week. So is the button an actual button you can wire?
    There is a small tactile switch that is placed under the red button.

  6. #46

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    I have a question about the Graflex 2.0? How do I install the red buttons in the button holes? They just keep falling out...

  7. #47

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    Guys the 2.0 kit that TCSS offers is this the same one tha Korbanth from the RPF is selling???
    Looks it

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by greyfox View Post
    I have a question about the Graflex 2.0? How do I install the red buttons in the button holes? They just keep falling out...
    are you adding electronics???

  9. #49

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    Hey, what's the inside diameter of the pommel end? I know it won't hold the chassis disc but will it hold a speaker/battery holder?

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sith4Life View Post
    are you adding electronics???
    No, without electronics...but there still has to be a way to make the buttons stick in the holes? or am I wrong?

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