Page 1 of 20 1 2 3 11 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 193

Thread: DCLS-004 Build Log

  1. #1

    Post DCLS-004 Build Log

    UPADTE 2018:

    So photobucket screwed a lot of us and ruined a lot of great archives. This build log being one of them. I've tried to update this as best I can but some pictures are gone forever.

    The early iterations of the design are gone. But this is where I ended up.





    __________________________________________________
    Here we go again!


    This one is pretty involved and will probably take a while to finish and I'm sure a lot of things will change along the way.


    I have a design for the exterior, but am holding off sharing it until I can confirm with Tim what can be done.

    Electronics are Prizm, 18650

    As far as the internals are concerned, I am planning on a full reveal dual crystal core. I've decided to go the 3D printed route because of the flexibility it lends in me being able to do exactly what I want thus maximizing my ability to save space. As a side note, please don't ask where, how, who in regards to the 3D printing. We all now the rules


    Ok, here we go.


    Here?s a quick full view and a little see through to see how things are taking shape internally.

    There are 6 main components to the chassis at this point. May increase/decrease as I go. It?s all modular so that I can pretty much just stack and build as I go. Starting from left to right: Rear End Cap, Battery/Board Housing, Forward Battery/Board Housing End Cap/Crystal 1 Seat, Crystal 2 Seat, Locking Disc and Switch Mount, and Mini Speaker Holder.

    The rear end cap will obviously be used to keep the battery in place as well as serve as the mounting place for a mini RICE and recharge connections. The plan is to also have a mini slide switch to be used rather than a kill key. Again, all for the sake of saving space and maximizing the real estate for the crystal display.

    You can see below I?ve cut a notch in the battery cylinder so that I can loop the wire back into the housing. Having the battery the other way would require the wires to go past the board. Not really ideal.

    The battery/board housing has a lift off lid for two purposes. One, to persevere the appearance and two, for easy access. The lid has 4 small pegs that fit into corresponding holes in the main housing. The board sits nicely in a form fit ?pocket? that allows access to the SD card and wire passage above and below.

    The crystal display is still a very much WIP. I?m tinkering with the design of pieces and checking out pricing for both plastic and metal. Ideally, I would like some metal pieces, but if it proves to be too cost prohibitive, I?ll most likely go the plastic route and do some creative painting. Here?s a look of the progress so far.

    The locking disc and switch mount are 1 piece. The reason I made this piece so long is to have it run the length of the threaded sections and provide some stability. It will be held in place with a couple strategically placed set screws. The locking lip will sit between the two extensions and provide just a little more stability and aid in spacing.

    Last is the mini speaker mount. Fairly straight forward. Allows enough room for all main led wires. I plan on cutting some holes/slots in the extension it sits in to allow for sound escape.

    The entire core measures 7.625" long. The battery/board housing and rear end cap measure in at 3". An the crystal chamber is a whopping 2.6"!!

    Well, that?s it for now. I?ll update as I go and most likely change things.
    Last edited by darth_chasm; 07-20-2018 at 04:53 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    Wow, it's impressive to see how much planning goes into your sabers! Can't wait to see how that crazy crystal chamber turns out!

    I also love how your naming system has three digits
    Last edited by NanoRex; 01-04-2016 at 06:10 PM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Based on the detail and especially the smallish snap fits I would recommend only FDM or SLA printing. Stay away from the polyjet or Zcorp printing sold on a very common printing site. FDM will give you the best functional strength but SLA will give you the highest detail and least post process finishing. I could defiantly see the crystal holders in a brass casting from a printed master. PM me and I can give you recommendations on the SLA materials you would want to request. But you will have to find your own provider...I don't offer the service so I'm not trying to sell it.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 01-04-2016 at 06:47 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    I love how detailed your concept sketches/pics are!

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NanoRex View Post
    Wow, it's impressive to see how much planning goes into your sabers! Can't wait to see how that crazy crystal chamber turns out!

    I also love how your naming system has three digits
    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    I love how detailed your concept sketches/pics are!
    I love the whole process of saber building, but the designing and planning are the most enjoyable to me. Doing the detailed renderings, drawings etc helps me figure things out. Like and other design process, it's a method of discovery and problem solving.

    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Based on the detail and especially the smallish snap fits I would recommend only FDM or SLA printing. Stay away from the polyjet or Zcorp printing sold on a very common printing site. FDM will give you the best functional strength but SLA will give you the highest detail and least post process finishing. I could defiantly see the crystal holders in a brass casting from a printed master. PM me and I can give you recommendations on the SLA materials you would want to request. But you will have to find your own provider...I don't offer the service so I'm not trying to sell it.
    Thanks for the info and recommendations! I will definitely be picking your brain as I progress. To be honest, I'm not sure what process the place I've used previously uses. Their warehouse is very close by, so I may take a trip over just to check things out, ask questions, and learn.

    I neglected to mention that I'll also be using some found parts for the chamber. That will help with material variation. I'm really interested in doing the brass crescents via casting. I previously made similar, simpler ones out of copper washers by hand...not fun at all. I'm trying to avoid that as much as possible.

    No pieces currently snap together. All the main components will have two 4-40s running through them just like a traditional chassis set up. As designed, the pegs on the lid just slide in the holes, but maybe some sort of resistance would be good. Maybe even lose the pegs and use some small magnets.

  6. #6

    Default

    I read the ears on the board cover as snaps. The printed master, then brass cast is very reasonable. I did my replacement wedding ring for $35 through a popular site just to test them out...lost my original titanium one while helping my elderly neighbor fix his snowblower. No good deed goes un punished...slept on the couch for 3 weeks.

    If you find the wire routing and board mounting difficult, one thing that might make the wire routing simpler is to do the board housing in 2 halves length wise, with a channel running the length of the board. This will allow you to mont the board in 1 side, run the wires, and close the housing.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 01-04-2016 at 09:15 PM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Lookin real good so far, I'm gonna be watching this one come together

  8. #8

    Default

    @Fenix

    That sucks, both the loss and the dismissal to El Coucho.

    I see. No, the board just sits in there. I was messing around with a few ideas for retention, but I think I'm going to simply use some double sided foam tape to keep it seated.

    The current design of the brass pieces is coming out to about $16 apiece. At 4-6 pieces, thats a little much. I may have room to reduce some thicknesses to drop the price a bit, but it'll be pennies at best. I do have a knack for blowing money on what I want though, so I'll probably end up pulling the trigger.

  9. #9

    Default

    No it adds up quick...I have 150k worth of SLA parts for a series of prototypes for a series of international focus groups.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 01-05-2016 at 12:28 AM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Btw what cad software are you using? It looks like 123design or fusion360. It has a nice and fairly correct perspective to the views.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •