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Thread: LED blade length

  1. #21

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    So there are no dim bits on your blade? I think I saw a blue blade pic on this forum that was very even - maybe it was yours...

  2. #22

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    if anyone has recieved their diffusers from tim yet? i got mine and put it in and when i lit it up i see these spots all up and down the diffuser that look like from the inside of the diffuser someone has pushed into the sides with a small pointed object. kinda like tiny, and a few are bigger, stress/stretch spots. but when i felt the outside of the diffuser its smooth. it just looks like someone jabbed it all over with a ink pen leaving these lil stress/stretch marks. if anyone understands what i mean. i'd try a pic but i dont think it will show up. i'll try one and see, but im doubtful it will. but you can see them easily within a few feet of the blade when lit. further away, maybe not. just wondered if anyone else had this happen, or if by some stroke of bad luck, mine was an isolated occurance.

  3. #23
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    You dirty bastard!!! Just kidding...

    The inside of the tube is dirty. I saw the same thing lastnight and just blew the tube out with air and poof the spots where gone.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  4. #24
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    I checked out TAP plastics' site and now that I saw the rolls I think it may be mylar. I know it's thinner and certainly more common than acetate. The metallic sheen certainly matched it better. Acetate was just my first reaction to your description since I work with that stuff a lot more.

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  5. #25

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    Forgive my ignorance - isn't mylar that very soft flexible, fabric like stuff? The kind they use for Jeep soft top windows?
    Because the foil I use is more stiff than that.

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  6. #26
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    Not that I know of... The type of foil used to cover the writing on the Luke ANH clamp is adhesive backed mylar. The mirrored type is used for privacy mirrors (one way mirrors).





    Which do you think it looks more like? Top = clear acetate, Middle = clear mylar, and Bottom = mirrored mylar

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  7. #27

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    I'd say the middle, but I'd try them all if I had them handy

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  8. #28
    Youngling vadeblade's Avatar
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    Gel,
    I went to Tap Plastics and purchased the middle one, clear mylar, before I saw your response. Tap has it for $2.50 / ft. for the .002 mil, 48" wide film. It certainly looks like the stuff in your auction. You say 7 feet to get the effect. That's gets expensive fast.

    I have to finish my kids' lightsabers so I just purchased 10 feet of the 24" size, cost is $0.75 / ft. Their lightsaber blades are only 20" so it is perfect. I will let you everyone know how it turns out by Sunday.

    -v

    Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade." http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

  9. #29

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    easy tim. i was jus trying to see if anyone else had the same thing. and i did the same thing you did. i run a cloth up through the tube all the way through. and then looked down it at a light. all debris gone. then tried it again. it still has those lil spots all over it showing up. so in my case, at least, its not crap inside the tube. i think its what you told me before. maybe some kinda machine mark/stress spots. for now i stuck corbins film back in it, cuz, those spots are annoying to me. and others see it right away and say they show up to them too.

  10. #30
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    I was kidding..

    But seriously..do you have access to any spray air? running a rag through will leave behind enough material to do the same affect. Is there a spot near a tip that you can try cleaning I bet the spots will move.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

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