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Thread: LED blade length

  1. #11

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    True, without the reflective tip there is no dim spot, the intensity simply tapers off and the blade is much dimmer at the top than at the base. I don't like that, I would like it to be the same intensity throughout, like an EL blade. So that dim spot is kinda anoying. The reflective tip itself is simply a flat surface with a flat mirror on it.
    I am not sure what film Tim uses, but I have my own method which I'll be disclosing after I sell 5 more sabers. I have spent sooooo much researching these things, I won't share the secret until I made the money back. But I'll tell you this much, my method makes the blade much brighter and more even than the stock MR diffuser. I just got Corbin's film and I want to compare it to mine, but I need to build a couple of sabers first. I'll post pics when I have them...probably in a couple of weeks.

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  2. #12

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    myself i really didnt see a dimming towards the end like my friend did. but i definately have a great looking coring effect all the way to the end. which i will lose that with tims diffuser, but on the positive side, it will definately be more evenly lit all the way to end. i am going to see what the differnces betweenst the 2 are, corbins film and tims diffuser and just use what looks the best. Gelu, that would be awesome of ya to share your blade building method. the more info that gets shared around only helps to produce better sabers. thats what its all about.

  3. #13

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    ow, the hell with it, I'll post it as soon as Tim gives me the ok. It does compete with an item he sells, but it's not cheaper.

    Tim, the method I told you before for diffusion. To share or not to share?

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  4. #14
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    share away..

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  5. #15

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    Alright then, here it is. I started with the ideea we don't need a "diffuser" for LED blades, but a refflector. A diffuser is good for MR's method, it's good for EL, but not for LED. A diffuser takes away from the light intensity and dissperses it as heat. Low and un-noticeable, but it's there.
    Anyway, to cut it short, I use perfectly clear film, about 7 feet of it and roll it up. The light gets bounced between the layers before it escapes, and there is no diffuser loss. Using this method, my 1 watt royal blue - the one with the lowest lumens rating, lit up a blade brighter than the 2005 Anakin FX - the brightest FX i've seen to date. There is also a coring effect produced, it is however the reverse of Corbin's film. The blade is darker in the center. Maybe I should use about 20 feet of the stuff, I don't know, I haven't tried it yet. I picked up mine at a local World Market - the last of it. It was sold as wrapping foil. I don't know of any other sources, but if Tim checks with his plastics sources and there is a demand for it, i'm sure he'd make it available in the store. The main difference between this and a typical MR style diffuser is difficulty of installation. I wrapp mine on a dowel and insert it, but this operation must be done in a VERY clean environment because any speck caught between the layers will light-up like a firefly. After inserting it, the stuff is so slippery it will come out of the PolyC too easy, so I cork it with a piece if PolyE tubing. Another limitation is the blade length - the foil comes in 30 inches width. I like shorter blades, but ideal to me would be about 33 inches.
    Anyway, my son, my wife and all my friends concur that these blades are brighter and look better than the ones with MR diffusers. They look better even when not lit, as the many layers of clear plastic give them a metalic look. I must have tried 20 different kinds of light dispersing methods before discovering this one. It is better even than special prismatic fiberoptic cable. I have invested close to $1000, so I hope you all understand my reservation on sharing this info so soon - I have only sold 3 sabers with these blades so far - not enough time to make them.

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  6. #16
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    You tried fiberoptic cable? Was it the 3M stuff or the generic sideglow? I've heard the generic stuff stinks but the 3M is worthwhile stuff but a major pain to get. I really like it from others messing with it but they said it wasn't worth it (their opinion I liked it a lot).

    On your method:
    What is this wrapping foil like? Is it opaque or transparent? Shinny or Dull?

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  7. #17

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    Generic sideglow.
    shinny and transparent - perfectly clear celophane like

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  8. #18
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    Was it possibly acetate then? Clear and shiny... fits the bill to me. It may be too thick (1/4 it's slightly less thick than the sheets you'd get for overhead tranperencies. It can be bought in huge rolls for a decent price. Rolled up it certainly looks like the stuff I've seen in your auctions.

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  9. #19
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    GeluKhanGharr, when you role up this sheet, do you get some sort spacing between the layers?

    I live about 5 minutes from a Tap Plastics, how thick is that plastic foil? how would it compare to printer paper? Tap has huge roles of all kinds of plastic sheets, maybe they have a role wider than 30 inches.I can go there tomorrow and look around.
    -v

    Lightsaber Warning Label: "CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to sharpen blade." http://www.geocities.com/projectstm/lightsaber.html

  10. #20

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    The stuff I use is almost as thick as a sheet of paper, thinner than the transparency sheets for overhead projection. I don't do anything to induce spacing between the layers, they lay on top of eachother. But that's alright and it still goes with what I said before - the light bounces between the surfaces, it doesn't have to have actual gaps to travel.

    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

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