Wiring for purple/FoC/AV/NB setup

[sillisquid]

I've been reading through so many great posts, and have watched most of the TCSS videos multiple times each. I think I've finally settled on my electrical setup for my first saber, and would greatly appreciate some feedback on it.

Basics of the build:

• Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
• Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
• Custom Tri-Cree LED (Red/Royal Blue/White)
• Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
• Power Xtender 2.0
• 2W 28mm Bass Speaker
• 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Purple Ring Switch

Some questions for you great folks:

1. Is my linked wiring diagram accurate (including the resistances)?
2. For the FoC, should I be using Green instead of white? If I should go green, is it still okay to connect that LED directly to the PEX without a resister in between?
3. Is the 3.7V battery sufficient? Or should I jump up to the 7.2V?

Thanks so much for any help!

[Generic Jedi]

1. Your diagram looks good. The resistor for the red LED is larger than you need. Also, the positive wire from the Nano Biscotte to the FoC LED doesn't need to connect to the PeX. It won't hurt anything if you do wire it to the PeX, but you could just wire it straight to the positive pad on the LED.

2. The FoC LED can be any color you want. If you use white, you'll get a washed out purple. With green (mixed with the red and blue) you'll get a sort of white FoC. I don't think its exactly white (from what I've read on the forums), but I'm not positive. I haven't used the RGrB LED yet (next build).
You will need a resistor for your FoC LED.

3. The Nano Biscotte was designed for a 3.7 volt battery. Anything over 5.5 volts will fry the board.

[ColdVizjerei]

1. The resistor for the red LED is larger than you need.

I believe the resistor is much larger so that a more blue-ish shade of purple can be achieved as opposed to getting a pinkish purple.

Also, you need a resistor for your FoC LED which is missing from the diagram.

[sillisquid]

Thanks for the time and comments!

1. Yes, I was targeting a higher resistance on the red LED to achieve a darker purple. I'll probably buy a range of resistors, so that I can dial in the right color. And if I correctly understand Generic Jedi, I can bypass the PEX for the connection between the FoC LED and the NB. A dashed line on my updated diagram.
2. I added in a 0.5 Ohm, 3W resistor for the FoC LED. And also swapped out the White LED for a Green one.

Again, thanks for your help!

[NanoRex]

As a small bonus, the next batch of NBs will very likely be the NBv3, which has an on-board PEx and therefore has no need for an external one

[Generic Jedi]

I didn't think of the dark puple color when I made my resistor comment, I was thinking about powering the red LED as bright as possible. Sorry about that.

[sillisquid]

Generic Jedi, It's all good. I appreciate your help!

NanoRex, thanks for he heads-up. Might work out, because they're out of stock on all of the sound boards. Something has people all Star Wars crazy these days...

[KongoBongo]

I know this is an older thread, however It's pretty much the same build I'm working on. How did you know where to run the wires for the AV switch? I see in the manual where to wire an accent light. But it's the pad on the top side of the card.

Thanks

[NanoRex]

I know this is an older thread, however It's pretty much the same build I'm working on. How did you know where to run the wires for the AV switch? I see in the manual where to wire an accent light. But it's the pad on the top side of the card.

Thanks

The AV switch has two parts: the switch and the LED. There are four legs on the bottom, two for the LED (marked + and -) and two for the switch (unmarked). Wire the switch to the switch pads, and wire the LED to the accent pad.

[KongoBongo]

Thanks for the info.

I was just a bit confused as sillisquid's diagram has the accent going to a pad near the bottom of the card. And On the NB v2 manual page 12 it shows the pad up near the motion senor closer to the top of the card for accent.