Machining my first lightsaber biuld

[ehutch7]

I'm brand new to the saber scene and am wanting to build my own lightsaber. I currently have access to a lathe and a mill at my school and am going to try to machine all my parts.

I've drawn up my saber in AutoCad and as you can see it is a Darth Vader replica. I figure after I get done with this one Ill actually make one of my own designs. Currently all I need to do is dimension and print my drawings and bring them to the shop and get started. Unfortunately my shop is closed until new years. I was hoping I could build it in time for the movie but I'm too late.

I'm wanting to add sound to it once its built but I'm not sure exactly how the wiring diagram looks and will need some help. I'm really excited to do this build and will post my progress along the way. Thanks for any help.

p.s. I'm not sure if this is in the right section.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Looks good, can't wait to see it getting made!

In the meantime, you may want to start reading through the manuals for the various sound cards to help you decide which one you want to go with, because that will determine what your wiring diagram looks like!

[ehutch7]

Looks good, can't wait to see it getting made!

In the meantime, you may want to start reading through the manuals for the various sound cards to help you decide which one you want to go with, because that will determine what your wiring diagram looks like!

Ahh ok Ill read up. Thanks!

[ehutch7]

Ok so after further research, building the Darth Vader hilt is going to be a challenge and requires work on the cnc machine in order to build a couple parts like the button and hilt tip. Until I get further schooling on that I made a new simpler design of my own. Pics include a cutaway view (on the left) to show interior features. At this moment there is three pieces to the hilt; the blade holder, the handle, and the pommel. Here is the pics. Hopefully this design sticks.

blade holder.jpgsaber handle.jpgpommel.jpgfull saber.jpg

[Xeron]

On your bladeholder, make sure you plan out what features you machine first, because you need to keep your workpiece holding in mind. Personally I'd do the milling first and get the slot and drill+tap the holes in 1 setup (can't tell how big your slot is, but the endmill length might get tricky as you'd be cutting the slot through both sides of the holder. You're going to need to start with extra stock on it though so that you aren't running into the vise on the slot. My personal preference would be to do all the lathe work last because you're going to be making all the walls thinner, and I'd rather have all the structure that I can get if I have to clamp it in a vise at all. I'm just an engineer, so if you've got a machinist there to help, they may have a better way of doing it, you never know. I'm surprised at clever ways they have for doing things easier and better and they're great to learn from. Good Luck! I'm heading into the office to do the CAD on mine on Wednesday if all goes to plan (yay for having access to NX at work )

P.S.
Autocad sucks

P.P.S.
For anyone who needs free 2D native CAD (even though 3D native is far better ) for saber planning, Draftsight is free and fairly easy to use.

[FenixFire]

"Autocad sucks"

Second that, still can't see why people still use it in professional work when true 3d software is not that expensive, and most can output the cam program directly. SolidWorks and Pro/e(creo) are great tools, but for $40 a month or $300 year fusion 360 is a steal for the capability, or 123d suite by auto desk is free... 3d cad, circuit builder, pcb builder, n-spline mesh modeler etc. But then I'm no engineer...just an industrial designer cross trained as an ergonomist/human factors (he75) designer...I only make things harder for engineering.

[ehutch7]

On your bladeholder, make sure you plan out what features you machine first, because you need to keep your workpiece holding in mind. Personally I'd do the milling first and get the slot and drill+tap the holes in 1 setup (can't tell how big your slot is, but the endmill length might get tricky as you'd be cutting the slot through both sides of the holder. You're going to need to start with extra stock on it though so that you aren't running into the vise on the slot. My personal preference would be to do all the lathe work last because you're going to be making all the walls thinner, and I'd rather have all the structure that I can get if I have to clamp it in a vise at all. I'm just an engineer, so if you've got a machinist there to help, they may have a better way of doing it, you never know. I'm surprised at clever ways they have for doing things easier and better and they're great to learn from. Good Luck! I'm heading into the office to do the CAD on mine on Wednesday if all goes to plan (yay for having access to NX at work )

P.S.
Autocad sucks

P.P.S.
For anyone who needs free 2D native CAD (even though 3D native is far better ) for saber planning, Draftsight is free and fairly easy to use.

Those are some good points I didn't think of. I'm only a freshman in mechanical engineering (and loving it) so this is all a learning experience. I think later in my degree we learn SolidWorks but I'm not exactly sure. Ill probably go in this order (like your saying):

1. Rough cut my three parts on the vertical ban-saw.
2. End mill/face the flat sides of each part.
3. Drill and tap all the holes.
4. End mill the slot
5. Face the angled tip
6. Finish on the lathe

My machinist teacher will be in the shop so Ill ask him how he would do it, although he probably wont know what a lightsaber is.

[Xeron]

"Autocad sucks"

Second that, still can't see why people still use it in professional work when true 3d software is not that expensive, and most can output the cam program directly. SolidWorks and Pro/e(creo) are great tools, but for $40 a month or $300 year fusion 360 is a steal for the capability, or 123d suite by auto desk is free... 3d cad, circuit builder, pcb builder, n-spline mesh modeler etc. But then I'm no engineer...just an industrial designer cross trained as an ergonomist/human factors (he75) designer...I only make things harder for engineering.

Thankfully I design automation and do CAD support for mold+die repairs and corrections (some part design, but not much), so I don't have anyone like you making my job more difficult . 3D native has come down significantly in price. I actually was never taught any 2D native programs in college, we went straight to NX. There are still big programs like NX and Catia that are quite expensive, but for what a hobbyist needs, it's way overkill. Thankfully there are alternatives readily available at the end of a quick google search and some research.

ehutch7, sounds like you've got the right rough idea. Personally I would keep some extra material (a couple inches) on one end of your hilt for holding it in the lathe later (because then you can more easily polish it, or polish it first, either way, the lathe is your friend). Ask your teacher how best to hold the piece when machining, round pieces are annoying and if you hold it wrong, it could come out. Machinists are a wealth of great experience, they've seen it all, have hurt themselves, and screwed up parts and are usually willing to share those experiences. I hope you can clamp it in the band-saw, round pieces sometimes like to spin, taking it slow helps. Don't forget that aluminum tends to heat up the cutters when it gums up inside the flutes. I use a knife to (very, very carefully, mind your hands) clean out any buildup. So just keep an eye on your cutters for build-up. The other thing to keep in mind is that you're using (I'm assuming) hollow stock, so if you clamp it too hard on the sides, you can start to crush it. Coolant/cutting fluid is your friend with aluminum. If you think out each step and learn all you can from your teacher and take your time, you should be just fine. I wasn't machining until my junior or senior year, so you're lucky there. It's a great skill to have, make sure you put it on your resume when you graduate.