It seems to be usable.Originally Posted by thomasbu
It seems to be usable.
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It looks like a Luxeon Rebel on a different base. I have no idea on the quality of it compared to the ones you'd get from TCSS.
The CREE LEDs sold in the store are brighter.
When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
Okay guys, Last post I swear (unless I messed this up)
Here is a list of electronics im going to use along with this led: http://www.rapidled.com/philips-luxe...l-es-cyan-led/
1 of: 2.7ohm 10w resistor
1 of: 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
1 of: Star thermal tape pad
1 of: Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
1 of: 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
1 of: MHS Heat Sink V4 (Flat Style)
2 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (White)
2 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)
1 of: 2AA Battery holder
1 of: 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Dot Switch
1 of: Momentary to latching converter 2.2 to 16V
Thank you so much, I am but a simple librarian. I appreciate the help from everyone.
Last edited by thomasbu; 01-30-2016 at 08:56 PM.
The 2.7 ohm 10 watt resistor is overkill for that LED. I wouldn't use a resistor at all. 2 AA batteries only put out 3 volts. To drive that LED at 350 mA, you need 3.05 volts.
You'll need this lens holder to hold the lens on the LED securely.
Wouldn't you need that resistor for the switch instead? the lower resistor is for the LED.
Thanks for reminding me about the lens holder!
The 20mA DynaOhm is for the switch LED. You don't need a resistor for the actual switch. Just the switch LED.
Ah okay, Do you think I should switch battery packs or you think itll be fine? I appreciate your help
If you use a li-ion battery, you would need a resistor for your main LED, but you would get longer runtime.
Alright guys....
Here it is, thanks for the help!
http://imgur.com/a/mx8Jx
nicely done! love that mhs combo. big fan of that cyan..
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