MR Vader: non-removable to removeable conversion?

[MikeC13]

Cleaning up in my basement I've found a Master Replicas Vader model that I got in a trade long ago. Older model with the fixed blade (I'm pretty sure it's a 2005) I'm thinking of gutting it and putting the parts into a custom hilt, but I'd like to make the blade removable in the process. Anybody ever pulled this off? Or am I better off just selling it?

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[Jay-gon Jinn]

Of course people have pulled it off. There is a tutorial and kit in the shop here to do it, too: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...kits-available The Kit: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR...-kit-P343.aspx

[MikeC13]

Sorry I should have been more specific I guess. I want to keep the stock LED string blade, but add a plug to it so it can be removed.

I remember seeing one somewhere years ago that utilized (I think) a 3.5mm audio jack?

[Kouri]

I don't think an audio-jack would be sufficient. With the LEDs in sequence, power line, and clash sensor in the blade, you're looking at 8 wire connections that need to be made between the string blade and soundboard.

[MikeC13]

8 wires? Well that's a little intimidating. An audio jack is definitely not gonna cut it. I had no idea there was any type of sensor in the blade itself. I didn't want to disassemble it until I had some definitive data, and searching has so far been fruitless. Here in this forum anyway, I haven't looked elsewhere yet. Thanks Kouri...

[Kouri]

If you were willing to rewire the soundboard, you could solder a clash sensor directly to the board, removing the need for the clash sensor lead. That leaves one positive for power the the 6 negatives for the scrolling blade.

The only other option to lower wire count is to lose the scrolling effect and wire the six negative wires together - but without the scrolling, you might as well just convert for use of a single Cree/Rebel LED.