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Thread: First Saber Build & First Forum Post

  1. #11

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    I was going to use a high quality spray gun as well as a good couple hundred dollar media blaster. Then completely disassemble the ar before applying any cerakote so I wont need a super huge media blaster and I get cerakote only where I want it. I wasn't planning on using it for the barrel(since it's melonited/nitrided) only on the upper&lower receiver, rail system, castle nut, takedown pins, fire selector etc. Small parts I'll do in likely the tungsten. Then the upper, lower, and rail system I'll likely do in the burnt bronze.

    I heard it's easy to do however it's easy to mess up as well. So I'll likely end up having to do it 3 or 4 times before I like the end product. Since it will be the first time I'm using cerakote and I've never used a ceramic based paint before.
    I already have the rest of the tools though aside from the media blaster and a paint sprayer for the air compressor. We have several air compressors and I might even use an actual paint sprayer depending on how ceramic based paints work in it.

    I'll be sure to search that forum post so I know what all I'm getting myself into. My father and I have painted entire houses though. So I think a small gun or a lightsaber hilt shouldn't be an issue once I get used to how cerakote works. Again I've never used ceramic based paint before and I've heard it's definitely a learning curve to get used to it.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Murphy View Post
    I was going to use a high quality spray gun as well as a good couple hundred dollar media blaster. Then completely disassemble the ar before applying any cerakote so I wont need a super huge media blaster and I get cerakote only where I want it. I wasn't planning on using it for the barrel(since it's melonited/nitrided) only on the upper&lower receiver, rail system, castle nut, takedown pins, fire selector etc. Small parts I'll do in likely the tungsten. Then the upper, lower, and rail system I'll likely do in the burnt bronze.

    I heard it's easy to do however it's easy to mess up as well. So I'll likely end up having to do it 3 or 4 times before I like the end product. Since it will be the first time I'm using cerakote and I've never used a ceramic based paint before.
    I already have the rest of the tools though aside from the media blaster and a paint sprayer for the air compressor. We have several air compressors and I might even use an actual paint sprayer depending on how ceramic based paints work in it.

    I'll be sure to search that forum post so I know what all I'm getting myself into. My father and I have painted entire houses though. So I think a small gun or a lightsaber hilt shouldn't be an issue once I get used to how cerakote works. Again I've never used ceramic based paint before and I've heard it's definitely a learning curve to get used to it.
    You will need a good HVLP gravity feed spray gun, I would recommend the Iwata brand guns, cobalt would be the lowest entry brand I can recommend. Stay away from any and all found in northern tool or harbor freight they are POS, a rattle can paint job looks better. The Iwata goes for anyone looking for an airbrush a swell. Their nailair version if still made is the best gun for model and miniature painting.

    Painting it's not the issue, I have custom painted and airbrushed entire cars, it's one of the ways I put my self through college. But after not being happy with my first action I leave the cerakoteing the metal work to the pros, the labor rates most charge is very reasonable for the amount of work and prep that goes into it.

    Remember ceramic coatings are not paint, it has to be walnut shell blasted and 400 grit sanded off if you mess up. The process is straight forward and easy once you have quality equipment and have it dialed in properly, but it is even easier to have any one variable go wrong.

    I am not trying to talk you out of it. If you want to do it to learn how, then have at it. Just practice and perfect your equipment and technique on scrap steel and aluminum before attempting the saber or AR. If you are trying to DIY it to save money...just. Pay someone it will be cheaper and you will be happier with the results. As with most DIY projects, they usually cost more and take much longer in the long run.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 12-18-2015 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Fixing autocorrect

  3. #13

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    Thanks for all the info! This is seriously great to look back on as a reference. As you said if I practice enough on something other than the main parts I'm doing first I should be able to perfect it easier without messing up anything I'm attached to. I tend to stay away from anything made from Harbor Freight after being an apprentice plumber and I've never heard of northern tool. I'll definitely look at buying an Iwata and if I have to skimp I'll go with the cobalt as you recommend.

    I usually try to do everything myself if I can as it usually costs me less to it money wise it just costs me more with the time wasted. Also you can usually get the exact result you want out of whatever it is your building or working on if your doing it yourself I feel. For example my ar build wouldn't have been nearly as tricked out for the money if I had bought one retail from some manufacturer fully assembled. Or another perfect example is computer builds. If you bought an alienware or some crap every time instead of building it yourself you'd be getting raped. So you definitely won't be able to talk me out of it. However I will take everything you said to heart and if it ends up being too much of a hassle I'll just have it done professionally as you recommend.

    One last note(just a joke): Are you sure you put yourself through college when you spell college like collage? Just messing with you cause of your typo I figured you might get a kick out of that. Anyways cheers for all the concern! I'm glad I got someone that knows a good bit about paint to help me understand that it's not ceramic based paint at all for example. It's a coating and so the prep work isn't nearly as easy as paint from what your telling me.

  4. #14

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    Nice catch, I actually typed it in a hurry while I was waiting for the kids I had just finished coaching to pick up the balls and put the L Screens back. Never read it back to check the auto correct. Just left whatever swipe decided to put...but I did get a bachelors of fine arts...so it is an art degree. The other two jobs in college were apprentice plumber with the Corp of Engineers and custom furniture.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Nice catch, I actually typed it in a hurry while I was waiting for the kids I had just finished coaching to pick up the balls and put the L Screens back. Never read it back to check the auto correct. Just left whatever swipe decided to put...but I did get a bachelors of fine arts...so it is an art degree. The other two jobs in college were apprentice plumber with the Corp of Engineers and custom furniture.
    Very nice. Good to see a hard working American on here . I didn't finish high school but I've done lots of construction type jobs in the past 4 or so years. I plan on getting my GED and then getting a gunsmith license and possibly an FFL if I can ever afford it or get all my ducks in a line. That's most likely a distant dream. I'll likely end up building sabers and computers for folks. Maybe do the occasional cerakote job or gunsmith job if I get good enough. Again though I wasn't trying to make it a personal attack on your spelling or anything I was simply having trying to have a good laugh at your typo. I'm just a 20yo punk kid compared to you just looking at your accomplishments so please do not take it personally.

    On a side note I'd imagine if you've got experience with custom furniture that if you want to upholster your vehicle's interior it wouldn't be that much of a challenge. Where as for most people they will surely have that done professionally. My stubborn butt included.

    Again I truly appreciate all the input for the cerakote coating. I'm sure it will be helpful when I start to take on this crazy garage based endeavor.

  6. #16

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    Hey there I looked at the iwatas and also at the sata hvlp paint sprayers. It looks like I'm going to end up spending like $300-400 on a good hvlp. Would you recommend the iwata lph-400 or the sata 1000b more? My cousin thinks he's using the sata 1000b in school for autobody work. He says they have put many hours on them as a class and he never seen an issue arise. Anyway hope this post isn't too late for your tastes. Happy holidays!

  7. #17

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    Just saw your post. Cerakote used to recomend - require certified applicators - to use the Iwata LPH-80. So as long as the specs are similar either should work.

  8. #18

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    Thanks for telling me this. The Iwata LPH-80 is fairly inexpensive compared to what I was expecting to have to spend. My pops actually has an old star hvlp that he painted my grandfather's harley with but I don't know if it's similar specs wise to this LPH-80. So I'll be searching all the specs up and trying to compare the two. I'd imagine I'll end up needing the LPH-80 and it won't be that expensive in the long run for what it does. Thanks again!

    EDIT: I contacted cerakote on how to become a certified applicator and start doing this professionally. They require you to have a valid FFL or pending application. As well as $750 per day for a 2 day course so you can learn from an instructor 1 on 1. I figure I'll do the FFL first with the business/trade name as well as a gunsmith license. Then I'll likely get a website going. Take the class for the 2 days and then I'll be good to go when it comes to cerakote projects as I'll be able to do it professionally at that point. Id be listed on their website for local business at that point too which is killer free advertisement. That's a lot to get done if I want to be certified so it won't be an overnight thing. I really want to do something like this though because it would allow me to make custom firearms and cerakote them all in my garage. Not to mention I could cerakote the saber builds I did easily then.
    Last edited by Charlie Murphy; 12-28-2015 at 07:31 PM.

  9. #19

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    The FFL requirment is because for you to work on any gun you have to have an FFL, because the owner is temporarily transferring "ownership" to you as the gunsmith. You would need the gunsmith level FFL, also I believe you now have to have a physical shop separate from your place of dwellng.

  10. #20

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    The first part of your reply I didn't even think about so thanks for bringing that to my attention. When working on another person's firearm you're basically taking temporary possession therefore needing the FFL.

    I will look into it more as I go through all of the jumping through hoops to get it. However my good friend that knows multiple people that own them told me I don't need a separate place of business. I've known another man that has his FFL even to this day and he doesn't own a shop/storefront. As far as having to own a storefront though I don't think I'll have to. When I first started looking at doing this I thought the exact same thing though. If that is the case and I have to own a storefront it wont be nearly as easy for me to get started. However if I'm right and you don't need one for what I want to do then it should just be a bunch of waiting for the paperwork to go through. I was more worried about being denied for no reason. Just eh we denied to give you the FFL you applied for just because we can. That would suck as I'd have to apply each year or so. I don't see why that would happen honestly though.

    I've always wanted to own a FFL so I can work on firearms and make custom pieces for folks. I just as you said always figured it required a storefront. From what my buddy told me you just need a business name/trade name and possibly a LLC so your not nearly as liable. Again I'll continue to look more into it. I used to think the same way though so again I'm not trying to argue I honestly thought the same way. The other guy I know just runs what he does out of a loft in his house for example. So I figure my garage looks more professional than that .

    That's why I'd get a storefront eventually if I could afford to anyway. It just purely looks more professional. So even if this starts up in my garage I'll eventually save up for a shop. Thanks for your help and concern though man. I'll be sure to post back on here if I find I'm terribly wrong and indeed do have to own a shop right off the bat.

    You say separate from my place of dwelling though. Does that mean I could build a wooden shop and place 30ft off my garage? hahaha
    Last edited by Charlie Murphy; 12-29-2015 at 09:10 AM.

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