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Thread: Build Log: NanoRex's Personal Saber (First MHS build w/ CFv7.5)

  1. #11

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    Progress is slooooooow. Finally had time to finish up the part customization diagrams to send Tim today; I'll see what he thinks. Here's what they look like in case anyone wants to know how I did my diagrams (I know they're not amazing, but hopefully they're good enough):



    I have also made some significant changes to the internal design. I decided to bite the bullet and outfit my saber with a custom 7.4V 18650 pack, with one cell housed in the upper section and one in the lower section, as well as a CEx and quad star Cree XP-E2 B/Rb/R/G which was a custom request from LEDSupply for colour changing but also a strong blue. As such I have lowered the bar graph to 4 LEDs with the other 4 being using for the crystal chamber LED, which will be a 5050 RGB SMD LED to save space. It's gonna be quite the cram

    As for the crystal, I'm torn on whether to use the aqua aura quartz crystal that I have, or switch to a clear quartz now that I'll have the colour-changing feature. Since this is a blue strong saber I'd like to keep the aqua aura for display when not lit, but it might look bad when lit a different colour. I'll have to see what it looks like lit, but if anyone could provide some input on this, that would be great.
    Last edited by NanoRex; 02-25-2016 at 10:16 PM.

  2. #12

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    nice! excited to finally see some progress on this saber. its gonna be awesome, huge fan of the derelict shroud over ribbed extension look. I also have have a build in progress with a similar look. I have a few aqua aura here, they can look great with a blue or green led ime, maybe even other colors? never tried. They tend to vary a bunch, some have too many inclusions to really light up well at all, and some are only slightly blue and very clear. Only way to know for sure is to shove an led next to it and see!

  3. #13

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    So I have come across a dilemma. When the covertec wheel is placed half an inch from the bottom of the 4" DF, the screw lies in the lip portion of the MHS threads (as expected). What I didn't take note of is that this area is only around 1/16" thick, which is only thick enough for two-ish 8-32 threads. According to Tim, this would not work out.

    Anyone have any ideas? I'm not a huge fan of moving the covertec knob, and even if I were, I would have to make changes to the rear sleeve in order to cover the screw holes when the sleeve is rotated, which looks really ugly. I was thinking maybe I could request an MHS part to be made without the lip, but I'd like to see what ideas you guys have first.
    Last edited by NanoRex; 03-09-2016 at 09:35 PM.

  4. #14

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    Internal lip o ring just to fill the gap maybe. I have seen them on a 3D printing website as a spacer for when you use trim rings near the pommel.

  5. #15

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    Gorgeous render, dude. Looking forward to seeing how this developes.

  6. #16

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    Can you mount a nut on the inside maybe?

  7. #17
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Put it on the gear section. Maybe Tim can mill out a counter sink so it sits nice and flush within the gears? If it ends up where it can't sit flush, you could possibly fill the gap with an o ring or grommet.


    Or go with an offset d-ring on the pommel.
    Last edited by darth_chasm; 03-10-2016 at 07:30 AM.
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  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    Put it on the gear section. Maybe Tim can mill out a counter sink so it sits nice and flush within the gears? If it ends up where it can't sit flush, you could possibly fill the gap with an o ring or grommet.


    Or go with an offset d-ring on the pommel.
    Unfortunately that's not really the issue here. The covertec screw serves two purposes: to act as a covertec wheel (obviously), and to secure the sleeve. I can't seem to think of another way I could secure the sleeve while still allowing it to rotate for the "peek-a-boo" as you put it, without having some type of screw exposed.

  9. #19
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Oh I see. Yes that was mentioned, apologies.

    You may be stuck with having to move it and modifying the sleeve.
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  10. #20

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    Hmmm.. but many ppl tap threaded holes in that area. I think it would be fine for a setscrew or buttonhead. I believe the problem Tims pointing out is that because the metal is so thin that it wouldnt be able to handle the stress of a covertec and its larger screw.. which when hung on a belt will support the entire weight of the hilt swinging around. worth asking about..

    if thats the case then I agree with chasm. probably best solution i can think of is to move the covertec to the gear and use a smaller screw to secure the shroud cover in the spot u had it b4.

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