Help Assembling Blade and LED Parts

[357hermon]

Here is my hilt thus far...

1211151324-00.jpg

It's 1" PVC, 11" long from longest point on both ends. I really am having trouble with understanding resistors and connecting the "12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Purple Ring Switch" and "Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova". Purple is what I'm going for. I have no knowledge of electronics and what wires, etc. to buy. With this already built hilt, what else do I need to buy? The sound module will come at a future date.

Here is the shopping list so far:

-12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Purple Ring Switch
-Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
-Star thermal tape pad
-18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
-8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (Do you think it might be necessary to buy more than one since this is going to be installed in PVC?)
-LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (40 inches) Quad Wrap Bullet Shaped

Just confused since all tutorials and most parts seem to be relative to metal hilts.

[Miraluka]

Whether the hilt is metal or PVC doesn't really matter so much. You'll be using this heatsink instead of the MHS heatsink. If you're using 1" ID PVC, you don't really need or have room for a chassis so no worries there.
But as far as electronics/wiring go, it's just like any other stunt saber.

as for the thumb screw, if you're asking if you should use more than 1 blade retention screw, the answer is no.

[357hermon]

Looking at the heatsink, I'm going to guess the silver thread piece will not be needed, just the bronze piece with holes?

[Miraluka]

If you don't have the aluminum piece, what is going to keep the lens in place and keep the LED straight and secure?

You'll want to use the silver piece and use a set screw to hold it in place. This keeps the LED from moving around and keeps it facing toward the emitter, keeps the blade off of the lens, holds the lens to the LED star and diffuses heat.
Non MHS.jpg

A piece of copper and an LED star floating around inside your saber isn't going to do much good.

[357hermon]

The Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes with center hole is still unavailable. Is there anything else in the shop I can use? Or possibly find such items in a hardware store or something of that nature?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

One hardware store alternative would be to use a 3/4" copper pipe cap. They have just under 1" o.d. and will fit right inside a piece of 1" pvc. You'll need to drill the appropriate holes for wires to pass through it, but they work.

[Jay-mo]

The Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes with center hole is still unavailable. Is there anything else in the shop I can use? Or possibly find such items in a hardware store or something of that nature?

EDIT: Jay-Gon beat me to it on the copper cap part. So on that tip, ill just say copper is easy to drill through, its a very soft metal.

[Darth Obi Don]

Or you can drill a center hole in the copper heat sink yourself.