Blade Holder?

[Jenny]

So, this is admittedly a tremendously newbish question.

How does a blade holder work? I mean, how does it actually hold the blade in place? What keeps the blade from flying out the end during sparring or other vigorous waving about? Is there something I need to order other than a blade holder and a blade?

[Miraluka]

You need a blade retention screw (There are plenty to choose from in the store) and an 8-32 threaded hole in your blade holder.

The blade goes in the blade holder, and the retention screw screws into the side and applies pressure to the blade. The screw is what holds it in place.

[Jenny]

Ah, thanks.

[Jenny]

After a bit of poking around to remember the name of the thing I wanted to ask about, let me amplify the question thusly: Has anyone any experience with using collets instead of a retaining screw? It seems a shame to interrupt the lines of the emitter with a screw. I know I could use a hex polepiece screw, but... a collet seems more elegant as a solution... if I could figure out how to use it as a solution, that is.

[darth_chasm]

It's not a common thing. A few people have done it and I believe a newer member is working on one now. Search bar is your friend in this case.

[Thorgal Pain]

The collet is something i am working on, for a basic idea, take a look at a skimmer telescopic pole, its realy the simplest way of doing it but the challenge is getting it to be thin enough not to compromise design but thick enough so it doesnt break due to the multiple hits, i wouldnt go under .250" thickness for the collet itself but i havent built one yet so i might be wrong. Its still a work in progress, gonna modelise one and do some pressure tests when i have time.

[acerocket]

I've done three different types of blade retention that do not require a set screw. On the Yun run, I used a collar on the blade and used the entire blade holder to keep the blade fixed. But it required the entire blade holder to be removed to swap the blade for the blade plug. On the Obi TPM run, I used a threaded adapter to screw the blade into the blade holder. But I would not recommend dueling with it. I did a custom saber for a friend and used a setup similar to a push/turn locking setup like a quick disconnect fitting. Set screws under the shroud protruded into the blade holder and the blade had notched cutouts. It was not my idea, but what the customer wanted. Worked great for show, but again, I would not recommend dueling.

As for a collet, sure, it could be done. I've even drawn up 3D plans and experimented with the blade holder and 'nut' aspect. I did not follow a tradition metal spring collet, but rather used a tapered plastic sleeve with a shoulder. The problem with all these ideas, is they require a lot of extra planning, custom machine work, and are not always the most secure. You say it would be a shame to add a set screw, but it only costs 5 cents and requires drilling and tapping a hole in an existing blade holder. A collet system or any other concept will require extensive planning and rather pricey custom machined components. That is why the vast majority opt for the simple, and cheap, set screw concept. You are free to experiment and see if works for you. But a lot of blade holder designs just won't lend themselves to that type of setup (think any blade holder with a slim, tapered, or windowed look). Besides, most movie sabers are festooned with buttons, and greeblies - you can usually have a retention screw double as an external feature.

[Jenny]

I'm actually looking at perhaps 3D printing a collet, using a shoulder design. Costs about as much as adding another machined section to the saber, from my research at shapeways. I'll let you know how well it works.

[Darth Nater]

Just drill a hole, insert a screw. The wheel is round, it rolls.

[FenixFire]

I'm actually looking at perhaps 3D printing a collet, using a shoulder design. Costs about as much as adding another machined section to the saber, from my research at shapeways. I'll let you know how well it works.

. 3d printed material as you are probably thinking of is PLA based. It is good for rough form/fit testing, some what I would consider light useable parts. But the proper process and materials to pull off a true multi-jaw collet would be as much as the rest of the saber. But this is only based on 15 years of professional product development and rapid prototyping experience. A tapered nylon washer/sleeve and a over-nut as described by ace rocket would be the most cost effective collet type I can think off of the cuff. Don't get me wrong FDM or 3d printing as it is more commonly known has come a long way in the last 6.5 years, keep in mind the only true manufacturing quality units are still $200k units found at large R&D shops or well established prototyping houses. If you do decide to print it make sure it is printed in ABS not PLA. From my experience, remember that in the makerbot, cube dremel or commercially built home/hobby use system you will only get about 60% of the sheer strength of molded ABS. If you use a commercial prototyper and a Fortus machine with better than 100micron build layers you might push it to 75%. I would not attempt it on a home built, the heads and technology in most of those kits are 3 years behind makerbot, and 5 years behind Furtus. You'll spend more time and material tweaking the build/print to get it right than just ordering it from a prototyper. Also do not make any feature smaller than .0625 inches, depending on orientation of the build they may or may not build. Sometimes you can get down to .04 inches, but anything under the .0625 inches has always been hit or miss for me when having things run.