Some wiring questions/wiring check

[Sawyer]

The saber I'm building isn't very basic, despite it being the first one I've done myself- but surprisingly, so far I've gotten a good grasp on everything through the help of those on the forums here. (Making shrounds, etching, most of everything having to do with the customization and structure of the aluminum parts themselves. Everyone has been very helpful on that front!). But undoubtedly, wiring is the most difficult subject of them all. I am trying to power an LED with a 16mm light up switch (momentary, saber power on/off), with an accent yellow indicator and a recharge port AND a second (doesn't light up) 16mm switch for flash on clash [or just an aux switch for extra sounds.].

Electrical notes/list:

MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2

20mA DynaOhm? Variable Resistor [I think I may need three of these for all the switches I have? Not sure. Honestly, I'd prefer to not have to use resistors/avoid soldering- but it seems I may need resistors for this build(or so I've been told).]

Cree Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module

16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Yellow Ring Switch (momentary lightsaber activation switch)

16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Stainless Switch (Flash on Clash)

Yellow light indicator

MWS Recharge Port

Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery

Premium 28mm Speaker

[As a note, I am using Activation box style 5- and my complete hilt is almost 18in, so space won't be a problem.]

Final EDIT: Was able to figure out what I need to do! Thanks for the help/comments guys!

[Generic Jedi]

You won't get flash on clash with a single Cree LED. The Nano Biscotte does have a shimmer parameter (or is it flicker?) that works during a clash, but you'll need a tri-Cree (and a PeX) for flash on clash.

You won't need the second switch with a Nano Biscotte, or for FoC. An aux switch is used with the more advanced soundboards for blaster blocking and lockup effects.

I don't think you'll need 3 dynaohm resistors. Only one for the yellow accent LED in your activation switch. Soldering wire to resistors is really easy, but if you don't want to you could get a pre-wired switch that already has a dynaohm soldered in. You will also need a resistor for your main LED (and the dynaohm won't work for that), but again soldering wire to resistors is very easy. Just don't forget the heatshrink.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Resistor for your Main LED, not a buckpuck. The 3.7V battery the NB requires is incompatible with the 5V minimum the Puck requires.