Build & Wiring Check

[Trinitas]

Greetings to the Forum!

I've been a silent member for a while now - reading and researching as much as I could before I decided to speak up. This build is going to be made using TCSS chassis disks, and incorporate sound, FoC, a recharge port, and an illuminated AV switch that turns on when the kill-key is removed.

The Jist of the build:

• Nano Biscotte v3
• 3.7V 18650 Li-Ion Battery
• Tri-CREE B/B/W LED
• Activation box style 9
• 16mm Short Blue Ring AV Switch
• 2.1mm SwitchCraft Recharge Port
• 28mm Premium Speaker

Questions:

1. The Activation box style 9 - My big question would be how the recharge port is going to be wired into this. I haven't found much material on incorporating an external recharge port, so I'm just unsure how it is secured into the box. Are both the holes in the Activation box threaded? Are there any tricks to wiring this that aren't so obvious at first?
2. For a Tri-Cree BBW FoC setup, is it acceptable to use one 0.5 ohm 3 watt resistor for the two Blue LED's in parralel as the main blade color, and no resistor for the White LED as the FOC accent in a long-term build? Madcow used this setup in his FoC tutorial but I wasn't sure if this was acceptable for constant use or if that was just for a bench test.
3. Is it possible to wire a BLUE AV switch as an accent LED on the NB v3 if paired with a DynaOhm or some other resistor given the 3.3V supply of the board and the 3.3V of the Switch LED? This is to achieve power supply to the switch when the kill key is removed and to stay on when the blade is ignited, but also to shut itself off in deep sleep.
4. Last and definitely not least, can anyone just give my diagram a good wiring and resistor check? I'm pretty sure everything is wired like it ought to be, but you can never be too careful.

Project 1 Wiring.jpg

[Generic Jedi]

Welcome to the forums!

1. Both holes in the activation box are threaded. FYI, box 9 is 1 and 9/16 inches long.

2. It's recommended to use a resistor for each LED, even the FoC LED.

3. It's possible. Read the manual a few times and you'll figure out where to attach the wire. The DynaOhm must go on the positive lead to the LED (you've got it right in your diagram). The DynaOhm has an in or + side that attaches to the battery/board, and an out or - side that attaches to the LED.

4. Your diagram looks good. The 0.5 Ohm 3 watt resistor is good for all three LEDs. Just use one resistor for each LED.

EDIT: See this post for more information on why you want to use a resistor for each LED wired in parallel.

[NanoRex]

I just want to add that I love how neat and organized your post and diagram are

[Trinitas]

I just want to add that I love how neat and organized your post and diagram are

What can I say?? I'm more than a little OCD when it comes to my work

Welcome to the forums!

1. Both holes in the activation box are threaded. FYI, box 9 is 1 and 9/16 inches long.

2. It's recommended to use a resistor for each LED, even the FoC LED.

3. It's possible. Read the manual a few times and you'll figure out where to attach the wire. The DynaOhm must go on the positive lead to the LED (you've got it right in your diagram). The DynaOhm has an in or + side that attaches to the battery/board, and an out or - side that attaches to the LED.

4. Your diagram looks good. The 0.5 Ohm 3 watt resistor is good for all three LEDs. Just use one resistor for each LED.

EDIT: See this post for more information on why you want to use a resistor for each LED wired in parallel.

Good to know on all accounts; thanks! I'll go ahead and get a resistor for each LED then. Easy fix

Project 1 Wiring.jpg

Just to make sure I clarify Question 3, I know where it needs to go - what I'm not sure is whether the NB can PHYSICALLY handle it. The switch's LED runs at 20mA and has a forward Voltage of 3.3V, which is the same supply that the board itself provides... R=(3.3-3.3)/.02=0... I guess the math just freaks me out, since I can calculate a resistance value for an orange or purple switch but not a blue one.

And also, I forgot to ask what's up with the powder-coating function on the MHS Builder. It's only displaying solid color options and it's kinda bumming me out.

[Generic Jedi]

Somebody more experienced will have to answer the accent resistor question. 3.3 forward voltage LED on a 3.3 volt pad. Do you even need a resistor for that?

As for powder coating, only the solid color option is currently available, and then only after the 15th of each month. As I understand it, machining down the powder coat is time consuming, and the shop doesn't have the time to spare right now...

[Silver Serpent]

The resistor for that accent LED isn't mandatory, but I usually throw a 1ohm on those just for safety. Those accent LEDs tend to be pretty bright (especially blue!), so you won't lose anything by putting a small resistor there.

[Trinitas]

The resistor for that accent LED isn't mandatory, but I usually throw a 1ohm on those just for safety. Those accent LEDs tend to be pretty bright (especially blue!), so you won't lose anything by putting a small resistor there.

Would the 20mA DynaOhmn resistor work better, or does it really even matter between the two?

[Silver Serpent]

Doesn't really matter. The DynaOhm is there for people who don't want to calculate their resistor values, or who want to swap out accent LEDs with different colors.

The DynaOhm costs more than a standard resistor, and I'm pretty sure it's larger than a standard resistor so it'll eat up a little more internal space.

[Trinitas]

Just as a side note here, I'm almost 100% sure it doesn't matter but if I purchased a luxeon tri-rebel instead of the tri-cree would I need to get something different than a .5ohm 3watt resistor for each LED? I think my math still checks out the same way but if anyone has any insider knowledge I'd appreciate it!