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Thread: Not Another Graflex Build

  1. #21

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    PROGRESS!

    HILT

    Switch Box 15 has been successful mounted!


    UPPER CHASSIS
    I'm running out of space pretty damn fast. As I get closer to finishing this build I will be eliminating 90% of the JST connectors. I've decided NOT to do a machined housing for the upper hilt and instead am going to wrap what's there with an etched brass mesh. This lets me add just enough detail to make use of what's left of that cavity, including all of the wires left to stuff in there. Those curious where I got those struts will be happy to hear it's just 4-40 All Thread with brass standoffs (threaded) serving as spacers.

    LOWER CHASSIS
    I spent several hours rewiring EVERYTHING including shortening several other connections, adding accent LED legs, and a power on LED. I removed the JST connectors for the speaker and will eventually be doing the same for the switches. I plan on extending the length of the reactor housing all the way into the clamp. This will ensure a safe connection to the electronics in the clamp (switches and accent LEDs). For the time being I will be moving the switch wires under the top plate. When it's all said and done the only wires passing through the Crystal Chamber will be the blade LEDs, power, and RICE wires.

    CRYSTAL CHAMBER
    The manual suggests an RGB Common Cathode 5mm LED for the Crystal Chamber..
    RED LEG [100ohm/1/2w]
    R= (3.7-2)/0.02 R= 85ohms
    P= 85*0.02^2 P= 0.034w

    GREEN/BLUE LEGS [27ohm/1/4w]
    R= (3.7-3.2)/0.02 R= 25ohms
    P= 25*0.02^2 P= 0.01w


    Based on where I have space left in this thing I am going to go ahead and try to do the spring loaded CC after all. Given my pending access to a machine shop this should be totally possible now. I'll be putting the rotational bearing in the aft side of the mount instead to save space.

    LED/EMITTER ASSEMBLY

    I found solid copper vape heat sinks that turned out to be the PERFECT size for the Tri-Cree stars!! I mounted it to the existing aluminum heat sink. Once the RGRB star arrives I will mount it and wire it up and run the wires through the center (as usual). Not sure what to do about the return (white) leg just yet. May end up just widening the center hole in the star...
    Last edited by girot; 12-26-2015 at 06:20 PM. Reason: adding some info that really didn't deserve a new post

  2. #22

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    Just cruising and reading up on everything I can to inform my "Buy or Build" decision for a summer project. And looked at this thread tonight. Congratulations on such awesome vintage parts you were able to score, and this seems to be coming along quite well, I'm excited to see how this progresses, really like the lower grip/pommel finishing!

  3. #23

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    Thanks! I'm pretty pleased myself with how things are progressing. I plan on doing a full "traditional" reveal video once it's 100% complete.

    I'm good with buying AND building (as the budget permits). It really depends on personal tastes though. Personally, I was born to do this. I built my first (non working) saber back in 1998.

  4. #24

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    Blade plug from KR Sabers finally arrived. It's a "classic graflex" style.

    I spent a couple hours last night tinkering with things and ended up adding a lot of little accent details to the upper hilt. They're subtle but distinct so I am very pleased. All these little additions will need to be made permanent before weathering begins so that'll tack on a day or two.

  5. #25

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    Seems a shame to weather a genuine Grafflex. Weathering machined parts is one thing, but those are in limited supply. For what it's worth, I would like to encourage polishing it up and making it look shiny and gorgeous.

  6. #26

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    Hahaha, I will take that into consideration!

  7. #27

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    So I'm looking into building my saber, which will have an exposed crystal chamber and wanted to ask, how do u intend to secure th crystal? and the RGB LED?
    "Peace is a lie. Perhaps the greatest of them all. Peace, or a lack of change equals Death. If the waters of a pool cease to move, and become stagnant, the waters poison themselves, and kill all who drink from it. Chaos, on the other hand, brings great change. Should the pool be over taken by a river, life springs anew.
    -Lord Malyce, Exile of Sith, First Warrior of Sands

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSilverDark View Post
    So I'm looking into building my saber, which will have an exposed crystal chamber and wanted to ask, how do u intend to secure th crystal? and the RGB LED?
    It really depends on how I end up building the base of my chamber. The 5mm LED is going to be (most likely) glued into whatever serves as the base and directly beneath the crystal. I am seriously considering using two-part clear acrylic resin for this. Set up the crystal in it's cradle then pour the clear resin. I could then mount the LED beneath the resin using a homemade contraption. My son is diabetic so I have a big bag of these little caps to long gone syringes that are damn near perfect for soft LED mounts.

  9. #29

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    I glued my crystal LED in place and later regretted it. During an upgrade I broke the LED posts and needed to replace it. I successfully unglued it, but it took some time and acetone. I decide to seat it by wrapping the wires in heatshrink to give it rigidity. It's firmly in place but easily removable.

  10. #30

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    My crystal LED will be held in place by the chassis itself. Since I'm custom designing and 3D printing the chassis, I'm putting in a little socket for the LED, with little clips to hold it in place.

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