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Thread: Not Another Graflex Build

  1. #61

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    Heh. so many DynaOhms in there. If you ever need to save some space, you could swap those out for standard resistors.

    Looking good so far.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  2. #62

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    In the future I will be using the micro resistors mentioned in the manual.

  3. #63

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    The Prizm ended up half an inch higher in the chassis than intended. Tuning the saber has provides some interesting findings:

    1) The high bass speaker is resonating a little too well and shaking the dyckens out of the chassis. This is setting off an endless chain of swings. I'm having some luck tailoring settings to each of the fonts, the high bass fonts in particular. I've lowered the volume and raised all of the motion thresholds considerably and that seems to be working.

    2) During the initial stages of construction I removed the physical resistors and attempted to use the color profiles to "digitally" restrict flow. This caused the first occurrence of what I've taken to calling the "rapid fire" error: ALL of the sound effects on the board would just start up in an endless chain. Maxing out the LED drive settings on any of the die also seems to cause "rapid fire". Even with the font specific settings I am seeing erratic behavior across all sound banks. I've tested this at length and determined that I MUST lower all of the "maxed" settings incrementally until I figure out what my actual ceiling is. I believe this bug is specific to my board and how I have it all wired up, so feel free to experiment with your own Prizms.

    Lastly, I've grown quite frustrated with both versions of the bubble card. They don't fight quite right and I am constantly having to readjust the switch assembly and card. I also would like something a little different, something that better fits the look and feel of Sakabato. To that end I've ordered an "Anakin C-3 Activation Board". It's on its way from Australia so I'm going to finish tuning while I'm waiting. Once it's arrived and installed I'll finally be able to do the reveal video.

  4. #64

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    Holy smokes! I just notice this thread got over 5,000 views! Thank you!

  5. #65

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    Congrats on the number of views!

    I have a friend with a very "bassy" sound font with the same issue. I was pondering the use of some kind of physical cushioning around the speaker and/or the chassis. Have you tried that, and how did it work out?

  6. #66

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    I have o-rings stuff in the bottom for this, but when i combined the upper/lower chassis into one piece it's about 5mm too short now. I'm pretty sure nothing is "rattling" in there. it's just resonating off the brass REALLY well.

    The good news is Pitch Black, my main font, works perfectly now. Rogue is being a pain now, lol, whereas before it was the stable font. Dark Side is about 50/50 and Schwartz and Calibrate are good enough.

  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by girot View Post
    I have o-rings stuff in the bottom for this, but when i combined the upper/lower chassis into one piece it's about 5mm too short now. I'm pretty sure nothing is "rattling" in there. it's just resonating off the brass REALLY well.

    The good news is Pitch Black, my main font, works perfectly now. Rogue is being a pain now, lol, whereas before it was the stable font. Dark Side is about 50/50 and Schwartz and Calibrate are good enough.
    Is your speaker holder attached to the lower discs with the small socket head screws, independent from the main 4-40's? If it is, I know you said it is too short now so might not be feasible, you could install a 1/16" thick section of TPU or TPR to reduce the vibration transfer to the rest of the chassis. Ideally the speaker mount would mount to the TPU/TPR then separated bolts would attach that assembly to the lower chassis discs...though since space is at a premium this is unlikely to fit. This is a suggestion from product design background, so I have not used it in saber building, just throwing that out since some have asked for saber examples when i give suggestions to try.

    TPR - Thermoplastic Rubber
    TPU - Thermoplastic Urethane - craft foam would be a cheap and easy to find alternative to test.

  8. #68

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    Did you ever find that limiting diode thread I was telling you about. The one that fixes the rapid fire souneffects?

  9. #69

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    I did not, though not for lack of trying. Searching the boards here is like the opening act of Into The Woods.

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Is your speaker holder attached to the lower discs with the small socket head screws, independent from the main 4-40's? If it is, I know you said it is too short now so might not be feasible, you could install a 1/16" thick section of TPU or TPR to reduce the vibration transfer to the rest of the chassis. Ideally the speaker mount would mount to the TPU/TPR then separated bolts would attach that assembly to the lower chassis discs...though since space is at a premium this is unlikely to fit. This is a suggestion from product design background, so I have not used it in saber building, just throwing that out since some have asked for saber examples when i give suggestions to try.

    TPR - Thermoplastic Rubber
    TPU - Thermoplastic Urethane - craft foam would be a cheap and easy to find alternative to test.
    That's a good idea!

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