please tell me this will work.

[neonmage0]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...2-f1537bed97b9

also since I am ordering a few parts at a time would this work soundless without the Nano Biscotte till I can afford it or would I need a buckpuck?

[CET]

Any reason you're using the AA battery holder instead of an 18650 rechargeable?

If you're adding a NB, you don't need the buck puck, and I don't know what it would be needed before if you want to build it soundless. If you're going to go soundless, you'll need a latching switch. Once you install your NB, you'll need a momentary switch. Unless you have a short deadline, you might be better off waiting for the next batch of NB's to be baked.

Finally, if you're using MHS V1, I think the 28mm speaker would be the better way to go. The 20mm speaker will have almost 1cm of extra space around it unless you have a mount designed to hold it.

I'm still pretty new at this, so I'll probably get corrected by one of the veteran saber smiths.

[Drawcut]

Agree with CET that a 18650 would make sense for reuse once you get a NB. Also you'll need a resistor sized for the battery so that's another thing that could be reused with the NB if it's sized for a 3.7v 18650 initially.

[Twigz]

If you plan on putting an NB in it, I would wait. You would need a resistor for the switch, and either a resistor for the LED or a buck puck for the LED if you chose to ignore the NB.
Also, if you did have the NB, your setup will still require a resistor for the switch and LED.
To be honest, unless you will get the NB soon, I would just wait for the NB. Otherwise you will have to rewire a decent amount of your saber to add sound.

[neonmage0]

I was hopeing to cut as much cost as possible so i could have it done by the movie premier that's why I went with the 4 AA but if you guys think its better to just wait and save up for the 18650 i might do that. Rewiring it later down the road isn't to big a deal for me since I plan on in the future having an entire hilt custom milled by a friend of mine.

[TrypWyr]

Personally? I would go for this holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P892.aspx
With the required battery holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18...lder-P886.aspx
And the batteries: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tr...pack-P517.aspx

For the stunt, use the momentary to latching converter and put it in place of the NB for now. Either don't worry about lighting the switch LED or use the following resistor:
(3.7 - 2.0) / .02 = 85 = ~100ohm / 1/8th wattt resisitor -or- just go with the Dynaohm resistor

For the amber LED, you would need the following resisitor with either a stunt or NB build:
(3.7 - 2.65) / 1 = 1.05 = ~1.2ohm / 1.2 watt resistor

Here's an awesome LED calculator: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Check out the following video by Madcow. I used this technique on my son's new lightsaber, along with my idea regarding the mom-latching converter above. Now I can swap out the chassis to go between stunt or sound saber at will. Very handy!

Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOpUSCsXXhk
Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sApB7J5JdZ4

Hopefully I didn't misunderstand what you are going for... it's late and my brain has the dumb. Good luck!!

[neonmage0]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...2-f1537bed97b9

Updated the list how is this?

also are you sure i need a resistor for the Cree Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module the page for it says all colors should be run at 1000Ma

[Miraluka]

Yes. You need a resistor for your LED. Your LED should be run at 1,000mA (1A) and the NB outputs 2A. Plus, the forward voltage on that LED is 2.65V.

[CET]

You should get a holder for your speaker. Also, I've not had as good results with the bass speaker as with the premium speaker.

[neonmage0]

imm going to be makeing custom holders for everything out of some thermal plastic i have