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Thread: Ultimate FX Kylo Ren Conversion?

  1. #1

    Default Ultimate FX Kylo Ren Conversion?

    first off, hello. ^.^

    I've done a fair amount of reading and research on saber conversions. Unfortunately it seems all the ones I've been able to find revolve around the Force FX line- understandably so, the metal hilts are nicer and likely sturdier. However for a first attempt I couldn't quite justify the entry fee being quite so steep.
    To that end I opted to try my hand at modding/converting an Ultimate FX saber, specifically the Kylo Ren TRU exclusive. Now I've seen people post before that they have converted UFX sabers with new blades- primarily using them as Stunt Blades/Practice Blades. However, finding information on How has been a bit trying.

    At present I am about 3/4ths of the way through cracking the hilt open. This in itself has been an ordeal as Hasbro has used an excessive amount of glue on the @#$% thing.

    So my question really boils down to this:

    Would converting it essentially follow the same rules as converting a Force FX saber or am I dealing with a whole nother animal with the UFX line?

    Any help/tips would be appreciated.

    1st UPDATE:
    I got the thing open! For anyone interested, here's what the innards looks like.
    ----
    closeup on the board
    20151106_121157.jpg
    ---
    and a shot including the speaker placement
    20151106_121226.jpg
    ----
    and the power button
    20151106_122438.jpg

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    UPDATE!
    I've thrown together a wiring diagram. Please excuse the crudity of this model, I didn't have time to draw it to scale...

    wiring.jpg
    ^- I forgot to draw in the Regulator Ground, it's set to go to the same spot as the battery.
    Last edited by quietstarr; 11-12-2015 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Diagram Added

  2. #2

    Default

    I recently cracked open the cheaper hasbro Kylo Ren saber with the intention of using a PNP transistor to power the LED but it didn't work so I used an N MOSFET instead to power the blade. Theres a video of it here in my thread: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...d-wiring-check

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by quietstarr View Post
    first off, hello. ^.^

    I've done a fair amount of reading and research on saber conversions. Unfortunately it seems all the ones I've been able to find revolve around the Force FX line- understandably so, the metal hilts are nicer and likely sturdier. However for a first attempt I couldn't quite justify the entry fee being quite so steep.
    To that end I opted to try my hand at modding/converting an Ultimate FX saber, specifically the Kylo Ren TRU exclusive. Now I've seen people post before that they have converted UFX sabers with new blades- primarily using them as Stunt Blades/Practice Blades. However, finding information on How has been a bit trying.

    At present I am about 3/4ths of the way through cracking the hilt open. This in itself has been an ordeal as Hasbro has used an excessive amount of glue on the @#$% thing.

    So my question really boils down to this:

    Would converting it essentially follow the same rules as converting a Force FX saber or am I dealing with a whole nother animal with the UFX line?

    Any help/tips would be appreciated.
    The Ultimate FX line is totally different from the Force FX or Black Series FX. The Black Series are metal and considered collectibles, not like the plastic Ultimate FX's which are marketed as toys. The conversion kit pieces the store will have eventually will only work with the Black Series.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #4

    Default

    I guess I should have clarified.

    With regards to the electronics/guts; is there going to be a difference in converting?

    The real issue I'm having trouble figuring out is with regards to powering it all.
    I was considering using a Rebel Star (in Red) to replace the LED string. The assembled kit for that says it needs a particular buck rated for 700mA, but the buck required a minimum of 5v.

    In summary, if I'm plugging 4.5 V into all that, is it still going to light up? My main concern is frying the LED and/or the board.

    In a perfect world I'd want to replace the speaker with a Bass one, change the 3AAs out for 2Li-Ions, and replace the LED strip with a Rebel Star or equivilant, replace the On/Off Switch and use the stock Circuit Board.
    Is that going to be possible?

    I know I'm going to have to make concessions and give up some things, but the key important things I need it to do by December is replace the blade with something more to-scale, have it light up, not fall part.

  5. #5

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    Any insight on how you got the thing apart? My son broke his light sheath, and I can order one to replace it, but I don't know how to get the darned handle apart.

  6. #6

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    Hi all,
    I am interested in this conversion . In the end, you get it?
    How did you do it?

  7. #7

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    It is sonically welded together..not glues as stated...as with most toys that are not intended to ever be opened, you need to very carefully pry the pieces apart. Depending on the quality of the sonic weld you may or may not be successfully. There is a good tutorial that was posted a while back on the blade builder teardown.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 01-08-2016 at 07:42 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    I tried everything before actually taking the dremel to it. Rubbing Alcohol, Nail polish remover. Friendly Orange, Goo-Gone. All those things did was make the plastic even more brittle.
    Best way I found to open it was to dremel at key sections like you'll see in the pics on the original post.

    Of Note, I did manage to force the bottom part off. If you're taking it apart I'd recommend doing that and dremeling the rest of it as above.

    Some notes: TCSS 1inch blades do not fit. You might have luck with the 7/8ths but I don't own any to test. Either way you'll need to cut grooves and drill a hole into the new blade so the old LED strip will fit. You can easily use the old blade as a guide for this.

    On the subject of Sonic Welding; I'm not sure about the Blade Builders one- but can confirm from the copious residue that- at the very least mine was glued. At this point I've taken apart many varied and different toy sabers. MOST of them are indeed ultrasonic welding (and I hate that)- but again, this particular one had residue.

    Overall Update: I have pretty much shoved this project on the back burner till I decide what I want to do with it. I happened upon a Black Series saber a little while back. It's true what everyone says, there is NO substitute for the feel of that delicious metal hilt in your hands.
    That said- I am not giving up on plastic saber conversions. I've acquired quite a few of them recently and have a lot of ideas and fortunately a lot of hilts to practice and test out stuff with.
    Last edited by quietstarr; 01-28-2016 at 05:35 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi, What is the update regarding on this one?

    I have a question, I'm going to replace the blade with 40" long and the LED, so how can I replace the LED with string type but achieve the same effect(light upwards and when it is off light downwards).

    Thanks!

  10. #10

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