Graflex Compatibility Question

[girot]

Quick question:

Will the "Hasbro Removable Blade FX Anakin conversion kit" fit into an old-school graflex body? I ask because I sort of killed the original bunny ears (and the attached ring) trying to remove them. I can get the bunny ears when they restock but I need a solution for the missing ring. I'm not going for a faithful replica so I'm not being picky. I just want to avoid a lot of expensive custom machining.

[Kouri]

Anakin dimensions are actually a bit off from a Graflex, and an internet search shows the Graflex blade holder not being compatible with the FX sabers, so I don't think you'll be able to use an FX blade holder in an actual Graflex.

That said, if all you need is a compatible metal ring, have you considered cutting a ring from 1" Schedule 40 pipe and securing it to the Graflex with a couple screws? You could cut a ring from steel pipe or wrap some PVC pipe in aluminum tape. Pipe cutter could scribe a few lines at either end to mimic the Graflex/Anakin detailing.

[Noyl Wendor]

It may be sort of tough right now, but if you were to look for the bunny ears on ebay, or a couple of the other forums, you may find a new set. Even if they are replica. Worth a try. Is it possible to see some pictures of the damage?

[girot]

Damn. Is it too big or too small? If it's too small I can simply build a shim/sleeve out of polystyrene tubing.

I could probably manage a mod from a pipe if I can't find a suitable replacement. Personally I like the rugged look but I had no idea I had the real thing until the nickle plating starting coming off. No worries though, at this point I don't feel obligated to make a legit replica and I can just have fun. This will be my first new lightsaber build since 1999 and I am super excited I've got such a classic base to build from.

I'm curious what I should do about an activation switch. I like the red button but there is very little room behind it for a proper switch. I see a few folks using these tiny pressure switches to turn the center clamp into a working activation box but that's a bit out of my depth at this point.

[Noyl Wendor]

Very cool to hear you're not worried about an exact replica. I dig that . As for your switch there is a momentary tactile switch that TCSS sells, its more that suitable for the "red button" activation. If you take a look at the forums here, you will find more than a few examples of how that red switch gets used with a tiny tactile.
Of course this depends on your sound. If you are doing a Nano2, then only one switch is needed (under the red button). If you are doing a PC (two switches, main and aux) then you could utilize one or both of the clamp bars (they're hollow) for two tactile switches. Leaving the red button alone.
I would look into the graflex BH TCSS has. There's also chassis discs for the Graflex. Perhaps start with your SB, and the chassis. The placement of the switches my present themselves
Good luck on your first build (in a while), do some pictures if possible.

[girot]

Once I have something worth showing off I'll post some pics.

GREAT NEWS! I may have found a solution to the switch dilemma:

IMAG0600_zpsp6ifa9jg.jpg utf-8BSU1BRzA1NzYuanBn_zps1ea5367f.jpg

I found this beauty while searching around the interwebz. This fine gentlemen built a micro switch holder that fits perfectly in the center of the clamp. With both switches in use I can get fully functionality once I get a soundboard (holding out for a Prizm or PC board from TCSS once they get more in).

Next up is to get a few things modified/machined. I am going to use the side-mounted D-Ring instead of the butt-mounted version so I can hollow out that bottom of the battery tube and convert the last half inch or so into a resonance chamber. I'm thinking I'll use o-rings to keep everything nice and tight and to eliminate any metal-on-metal vibration from the bass speaker. I'm not looking to build a handheld Pinto here, lol.