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Thread: Cheapy Kylo Ren Econo Board wiring check

  1. #21


    Is the original poster still around? In the diagram you mention a bridge... Were you saying you bridge +/- with a bead?

  2. #22


    I'm a bit confused about the main led leads. Does the (Bridge here) mean the pos/neg leads have been soldered together?

  3. #23


    Quote Originally Posted by Jonlo Garoc View Post
    I'm a bit confused about the main led leads. Does the (Bridge here) mean the pos/neg leads have been soldered together?
    Yes solder together

  4. #24


    Hey, sorry for the delay, actually, I put this project down because of how annoying this board is. I have since completed this build after frying two boards with bad soldering. Below are some tips on how to make it work and a revised, tested and working wiring diagram:

    the board is soldered using RoHS non leaded solder so its difficult to use that type of solder when rewiring it because the temperature requirements are high and the board is very fragile so use rosin core 60/40 instead the temperature for this is way lower and allows you to make quick tacks of solder which will be useful in the switch portion. I also used an xacto blade bottom to make sure none of my soldering touched overlapped in the switch portion of the board. Its easy to accidentally bridge the connection and make it very difficult to remove it safely. THIS IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART.

    I used one of the crossguard LED's for the illumination of my AV switch.

    For space, I glued the board onto a single AA cage and glued the N MOSFET to the top of the cage as well as I soldered the resistor from the Gate to the Source so that I dont have an extra wire.

    The resistor between the Gate and Source pin is to fix a problem I had with the LED remaining on after deactivation. The MOSFET carried a static charge and left the LED on, so the 10k OHM resistor acts as a pulldown resistor and drains the static charge.

    If youre smart, maybe you can figure out a way to wire another mosfet into the build so that when the saber clashes, there can be a FoC effect from the speaker wire.

  5. #25


    see the latest post for a revised diagram

  6. #26


    hi there Thanks for the information all you guys have been posting it's been really helpful for myself
    I'm fairly new to blade building and I got the Hasbro Kylo Ren aswell as my first led controller and soundboard to use in my first. I want to wire an extra battery stepping up the voltage input to 4.5v. From what I have read the board will take that. Am I able to wire my led directly to this circuit with only a resistor on the positive directly from the battery and the negative going into the board or do I need that transistor? Many thanks guys

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