Awesome, thanks. I'll fire away with questions then. Usually do you put a white diffuser sleeve inside a clear tube for most lightsaber. Or do you usually just get a big white tube and call it a day? And if you do put a white diffuser in a clear tube do you then do you put cellophane inside the white tube to help carry out the light?Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight
Clear blades with either the diffuser tube OR cellophane. The trans-white blades are acceptable by themselves or with cellophane.
I've found that red can look a little washed out in the trans-white blades, so that particular color would probably be better suited for a clear/cello blade.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Also, I've been thinking, how would a white + color LED combo look visually? Anybody tried doing that? Would it wash out the color alot or actually kinda work to just make the diffuser look whiter and the ambient color would still be pretty strong, but just a bit lighter?
EDIT: Also what's the best LED choices for as bright a blade as possible (Watt/$$$ also considered)?
Last edited by skyler; 10-07-2015 at 01:09 PM.
Definitely the Cree or Tri-Cree stars!
Hello, I am fairly new to the forum as well, but I remember my first saber very well and have done around a dozen since. In my opinion, the best way to start would be to just assemble the basic electronics for a stunt saber: a power source, switch, resistor, LED, and optics. After wiring this, OUTSIDE the saber separately, you will quickly see how it operates and get familiar with the parts. This is also ensures that the parts actually work as they should. This makes it clear what you will need to to fit in the saber and it's the first step of a term you will hopefully master: Cram fu.
A side note is that Tim (TCSS) sells 1" heat sinks alone that could be very useful if you're doing your own machining. You will need an exterior method to keep it secure as the blade will push up against it in the actual saber, but shouldn't be too hard. Last time I tried to order one, he was out, but it'd be worth looking into. Good luck on your club and may the force be with you!
One thing I've been wondering: does anybody have a good picture with all the different wavelength single color LEDs used for blades floating around. It's hard to tell which blades are just using a filter. Personally I'm leaning towards the cyan blade in KOTOR2, if not that then New Hope Cyan (though KOTOR2 cyan is strongly preferred), but it's hard to figure out what the perfect color is thats actually on the market.
I think this is exactly why a lot of people now are using Tri-Crees (R/rB/G) to mix their own custom colors; that way they get the closest thing to their vision of the "perfect color"
Despite the truth in Cire Yeldarb's statement, I actually have pics of a decent amount of Lux LEDs installed. The first pic is a collage of cyan (TL), deep red(TR), Amber (BL), and Blue (BR). I think that the cyan looks more green in person but is a very beautiful color. The second pic is of a LUX green. All used a trans white thin walled blade with no additional diffusers.
Screenshot_2015-10-09-21-25-51-1.jpgScreenshot_2015-10-09-21-33-10.jpg
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