Building my first Saber, help with parts check?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah, it's just that the things you mention and an extension I want are out of stock. I'm curious though, are you good with LEDs? I'm just looking for a bright, nicely colored yellow LED to my saberstaff.

Yes. To get a decent yellow, you need to run a Red at full power and Green at nearly full power (800-900 mA range), assuming you are using a Tri-Cree RGrB. The shade you like obviously depends on you. You would need to experiment with resistors. The alternative is to go with a sound card that is capable of color mixing to get the shade you REALLY want.

[Siow]

Yes. To get a decent yellow, you need to run a Red at full power and Green at nearly full power (800-900 mA range), assuming you are using a Tri-Cree RGrB. The shade you like obviously depends on you. You would need to experiment with resistors. The alternative is to go with a sound card that is capable of color mixing to get the shade you REALLY want.

Now this leads me up to my biggest concern, the one that's been making me research this for months jumping from sabersmith to sabersmith. Is it possible to perfectly replicate this so I can get two exact shades of yellow for my saberstaff? This is why I was initially going to go with SF LEDs, it could potentially create a lot less hassle for me. I grew up in a family of artists and one thing I picked up is noticing slightly differing shades of color.

On a side note, if I do go with a tri cree from TCCS, since the blue is not being used in a Yellow setup, could I replace it with amber to enhance the shade of yellow?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It Depends ™ . LEDs by nature are all slightly different. You probably could recreate the color, but that would be up to you to mix them. You could replace the blue, though I am not sure how that would really help you. If color mixing is important, I strongly suggest you get a board that would be capable of it.

[Siow]

For the sake of time and less overall confusion, I'm going with SF LEDs. I've received help from someone else who claims to be familiar with the NBv2 and SF LEDs and he sent me these pictures. The SF LED positive and negative wires come pre-resistored and made into common positives/negatives. He also said that I would need to wire a power extender to the NBv2 like so. I'm not too familiar about the NBv2 and the Power Xtender but what are your thoughts on the setup he recommended?

https://40.media.tumblr.com/f4e8f93d...bneeo1_540.jpg <<<LED Module

https://40.media.tumblr.com/e9a93e70...bneeo2_540.jpg <<< NBv2 w/ Power Xtender setup

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

For the sake of time and less overall confusion, I'm going with SF LEDs. I've received help from someone else who claims to be familiar with the NBv2 and SF LEDs and he sent me these pictures. The SF LED positive and negative wires come pre-resistored and made into common positives/negatives. He also said that I would need to wire a power extender to the NBv2 like so. I'm not too familiar about the NBv2 and the Power Xtender but what are your thoughts on the setup he recommended?

https://40.media.tumblr.com/f4e8f93d...bneeo1_540.jpg <<<LED Module

https://40.media.tumblr.com/e9a93e70...bneeo2_540.jpg <<< NBv2 w/ Power Xtender setup

Well, I have no comment on the LED, and jury rigging the NB to go over the 2A is not what I would recommend. With that said, all I am going to say is "Caveat Emptor", and good luck.

[Siow]

Then what would you recommend exactly? (In terms of wiring this LED with the Power Xtender and the NB)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Then what would you recommend exactly? (In terms of wiring this LED with the Power Xtender and the NB)

Given that you want to use a SF LED and use the NB in the manner you want to, I don't have a recommendation. Sorry. I wouldn't use that LED, or even recommend it, (ever), and if I were trying to drive bright LEDs past 2A, I, personally, would use a card that could properly do the job, like a Prism. If someone else tried what you are attempting, I'm sure they'll chime in.

[Siow]

Alright, I have another option. It'll be long and tedious, but it can potentially yield great results. HHCLS supports using TCSS parts and he has a tutorial on making an LED string blade housed inside TCCS blades w/ a blade diffuser.

It's a string of 5mm straw hat LEDs wrapped in a foam packing sheet which is then placed into the diffusor then placed into a custom saber shop blade. I may have to use resistors here but I'm curious if you or anyone you know is familiar with this. Could this work with an 18650 setup?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

No, I'm not very familiar with Hampton's stuff. If done properly, it should work. But again, I haven't seen LED stings run with a NB. Usually, string blades are done with a CF-LS (Crystal Focus for LES Strings). I don't know why you aren't just using a Tri-Cree and experimenting with some resistors to get the color you want. I would think that would be your easiest solution.

[Siow]

Simply put, I want a bright, fully lit blade that doesn't dull in brightness towards the end of the blade.