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Thread: PVC pommel help

  1. #1

    Default PVC pommel help

    Ok so I have my design done for my next pvc saber. Problem I am having is i want to do a pommel like this one http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Po...le-3-P679.aspx but I can't seem to figure out how to do it with PVC pipe. Does anyone have any insight into how to pull this off? I say a thread about using bondo to mod pvc parts but I don't think it would be sturdy enough for the pommel. So PLEASE if someone out there has done something like this I would love the input.

  2. #2

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    My plan was to glue/screw some sheets of expanded PVC foam together into a solid block and take that to the belt sander until I got a cone shape. You won't find expanded PVC at the hardware store, though, so you might want to try shaving down a decent chunk of wood to fit.

    Alternatively, I've heard male MHS threads can be screwed into SCH40 1.25" PVC - perhaps you could attach some 1.25" PVC to the pommel-end of your hilt as an MHS adapter and just purchase the linked pommel?

  3. #3

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    In theory you could calculate the exact triangular sections you would need to cut out of it so that you could heat the PVC to the point of being flexible without breaking with a heat gun, then fold the spikes left on the hilt inwards to create the point you want, and use some sort of PVC glue to affix them together. You'd probably want to fit something into it at the fold point so supports the tube in a way that it won't collapse on you/fold in a way you don't want it to. Suggest not using something plastic for that because the heat gun might fuse the pieces together.

    Keep in mind that this is coming from someone who is purely theorizing and has never made anything out of PVC before...

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the ideas. I have bent pvc for a curved saber by heating it. Never thought to cut sections out then bend the rest together. That might actually work. I can always use some apoxy to fill any gaps or even some bondo to smooth out the shape. Might try that since I have some extra pipe laying around.

  5. #5

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    By far the best thing I've found for sculpting things on my pvc sabers is JB water Weld epoxy. It's tested at 9000 psi so it's super stong, sandable, and it can be painted. That's how I sculpted all my bends and curves on my buddy's Nihilus saber. I'll upload some pictures in a bit.

  6. #6

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    Cool I will look into that

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thalan the Exiled View Post
    Thanks for the ideas. I have bent pvc for a curved saber by heating it. Never thought to cut sections out then bend the rest together. That might actually work. I can always use some apoxy to fill any gaps or even some bondo to smooth out the shape. Might try that since I have some extra pipe laying around.
    On second thought, the cuts would need to be angled in as well so they marry up properly. In theory it should be the angle of a triangle from the outer diameter to the exact centre of the pipe. The tips of the triangles would need to be angled inwards as well. It's complicated bordering on convoluted, but I think it would be doable with a dremmel and a steady hand.

  8. #8

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    My offering Thalan would be flat plastic discs of decreasing size glued together then sanded to a smooth cone
    I did a similar thing with aluminium to make my tsuba

    image.jpgimage.jpg imagine this in more of a cone shape



    I would think this would be quite easily done with PVC

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcarp100 View Post
    By far the best thing I've found for sculpting things on my pvc sabers is JB water Weld epoxy. It's tested at 9000 psi so it's super stong, sandable, and it can be painted. That's how I sculpted all my bends and curves on my buddy's Nihilus saber. I'll upload some pictures in a bit.
    Would that epoxy work for filling in gaps? I've got a coupler up against an end cap and want the seam to disappear. Have been thinking about using Bondo but this stuff seems pretty good from the description I saw on their website. Just want it to be one flush tube instead of feeling the seams.

  10. #10

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    yes i was thinking something along those lines but using wood since i have plenty of it laying around. i could make the cone and add a piece to the top to use like a plug in the end of the 1" piece. when painted black i think it would be hard to tell the difference. thanks to everyone for the suggestions. once i get the chance to work on it i will post some pics.

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