PVC build questions

[SithArts]

Sorry if the info is out there or redundant but I've searched and search, so decided to ask. I've made two trips to Lowe's not buying anything because I second guess myself. I've seen Jay-gon's pvc thread and others but this is my hiccup. At Lowe's I find the pvc schedule 40. But can't find anything that fits snug over it except the couplers or end cap. Everything else is loose fitting. Am I missing something? I see everyone's pvc sabers with all kinds of designs and shrouds etc. I'm wanting to build a quick cheap saber for Halloween. Been thinking of doing Darth Nihilus. Doesn't have to be exact, but was going for something close in looks. The trouble I see would figuring out the groves in the grip and the emitter. I may have other questions but I can't quite find the parts I need. Unless I heavily modify a lot of couplers. I'll try and add a picture from the net because I've found about 3 versions of his saber.
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[Kouri]

1.5" PVC sinktube slips pretty snugly over 1" PVC pipe. Most other PVC shroud work is either 1" couplers that have been glued in place or SCH40 1.25" PVC pipe that's been screwed into place.

[SithArts]

1.5" PVC sinktube slips pretty snugly over 1" PVC pipe. Most other PVC shroud work is either 1" couplers that have been glued in place or SCH40 1.25" PVC pipe that's been screwed into place.

Maybe it's just the stuff at Lowe's, I am not sure but I test fitted few different pvc sink tube pieces and has about 1/16 play in it over the 1" schedule 40. Wonder if someone knows a good trick to solve for the looseness.

[Silver Serpent]

A few wraps of tape can help eliminate the extra space. I use either masking tape, or I have some aluminum foil tape that I use for bigger pieces.

[SithArts]

A few wraps of tape can help eliminate the extra space. I use either masking tape, or I have some aluminum foil tape that I use for bigger pieces.

What type of glue would you suggest then? I've heard of people also using wood glue filler, or something called acrylic caulk for filling in gaps to sand and paint?

[Silver Serpent]

If it's a PVC-to-PVC connection, then I use PVC cement to do the job. You can find it in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. I also like to use screws (some decorative, some functional) to hold pieces together that need extra strength. Coarse threads are your friend with PVC.

Most of the time, I'm modifying couplers and such. It's not always easy finding the right thicknesses of piping for the layered look.

[SithArts]

If it's a PVC-to-PVC connection, then I use PVC cement to do the job. You can find it in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. I also like to use screws (some decorative, some functional) to hold pieces together that need extra strength. Coarse threads are your friend with PVC.

Most of the time, I'm modifying couplers and such. It's not always easy finding the right thicknesses of piping for the layered look.

Yeah, that's what I'm seeing. So how would you tackle my project personally? Cause there are about two to three layers for the pommel, grip, and switch area. Then the emitter has about 3 to 4 layers there.

My best guess would be to cut a bunch of couplers and sand down the areas to try and achieve the layered looks. But I don't have a lathe. Just a dremel lol

[Silver Serpent]

Keep on looking at Lowe's. There are sizes of PVC that will just fit over the couplers as well. Might take a little sanding.

Depending on your design, you could split a piece of PVC lengthwise, and heat it gently in the oven until you can wrap it around an existing piece. PVC doesn't have a tight melting point, it just kinda softens more and more, so be careful. Also mind the plastic fumes.

[SithArts]

Keep on looking at Lowe's. There are sizes of PVC that will just fit over the couplers as well. Might take a little sanding.

Depending on your design, you could split a piece of PVC lengthwise, and heat it gently in the oven until you can wrap it around an existing piece. PVC doesn't have a tight melting point, it just kinda softens more and more, so be careful. Also mind the plastic fumes.

Thanks, I'll do some more looking. I'm sure I'll have other questions along the way lol

[SithArts]

Ok. So I think I need help arranging what I need to order and plan out the electronics. So please bare with me because I've tried doing more searching but I see so much it's hard to weed through it all and a lot of info is old.

The blade, I've read Jay-gon's tutorial on making one, and as I'd like to, I am leaning to just ordering a ready made blade. I want a duel one just in case I do have someone to battle. No locals into lightsaber dueling but who knows, one must be ready. Or is it worth going for the show blade and save the money?

I want just a plain red saber. And going with the new Vader cheap Hasbro. I saw jakesoft's post of the tear down. Does anyone have a current schematic on wiring it up? He mentions they use a 16ohm spreaker and need to modify for the 8ohm in the store.

Also if I use schedule 40 pvc as the base of the saber, and use a copper end cap, which I saw in a tutorial, would I still need a lens holder? They suggested using a scrap piece of tube saber which I won't have. That leads back to unless I make my own that's longer and trim down.

And also I hear piece of tube saber could be used to hold the sound board. Maybe I should just make my own first so I can have scrap for the electronics?

What speaker would be best? I like the bass but the premium might be best for this build. And how will I mount it? Maybe modify the pvc, which I'm thinking I won't have much of a chassis or sled.

Also power. Very rusty on electronics, but this Hasbro board uses 3 aaa. But I've seen using 4aaa for an led saber. Would that be too much power or is it these cheap boards can handle more power?

Mainly I've confused myself on what to do for the guts. Hopefully can make up a full part list so I order it all in one shot.