Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5
Results 41 to 46 of 46

Thread: Hasbro "Blade Builder" Tear-Down Guide

  1. #41

    Default

    There are only two electrical connections to the swing sensor, one is simply a mount.

    If you look at the traces, you can see which ones are connected in the circuit. There is one that connects to a blank space on the board.

  2. #42

    Default Different board set up.

    I just pulled apart my blade builders and the board and it is a little different than the pictures I have seen on here before. Has anyone else gotten a blade builder with the switch a part of the board itself? Where is the switch wired in at?
    Last edited by Skibuf2; 07-01-2017 at 10:33 AM.

  3. #43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skibuf2 View Post
    I just pulled apart my blade builders and the board and it is a little different than the pictures I have seen on here before. Has anyone else gotten a blade builder with the switch a part of the board itself? Where is the switch wired in at?
    The Kylo and Spin Saber version have the switch on board along with a 3 position switch that appears to allow the ON button to become a blaster block sound, but i cant seem to replicate it well enough to determine IF thats what it in fact does.

  4. #44
    Board Lurker
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    3

    Default

    How would i go about replacing the 3 pin clash sensor with the custom saber shops 2 pin clash sensor. From what ive seen on my board its the big black cylinder on the underside of the board.

  5. #45

    Default

    Do you connect the resistor to the positive or negative wire?
    Laser Sword

  6. #46

    Default

    Updated OP with attached images to compensate for the death of free embedded image hosting on the Web.

    You need to log in to the TCSS Forum to see the images.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •