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Thread: Hasbro "Blade Builder" Tear-Down Guide

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Inf4mous View Post
    this has been the most frustrating wiring job ive dealt with...I need help lol...So i wired my board using this diagram and my momentary switch will not power on the board!? i tried a bunch of different combinations also my leds are soooo dim wtf! help pleeeaasssseee

    Attachment 13000
    This is my first build using the new Blade builders board, and I'm wondering if I were to add a 3 Watt Green LED could I use a Buckpuck with it? And if so how would I add it in?

  2. #32

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    hi everyone, i was just curious, what is the exact transistor used? ive been looking online for one, and not exactly sure what type to get, i know it has to be a PNP type transistor, but what was the exact one used?

    thanks, and may the force be with you!!

  3. #33

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    Does anyone know if this will work with a 12w RRBB SaberForge LED and a 18650 from the store? These two came from a botched custom saber job that I bought.

  4. #34

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    Probably, but since its a different LED your resistors will be different.
    When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.

  5. #35

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    You'll need to know exactly what led was used. That's where the real problem lies. Most newer ones are Cree XB-D, newest claim to be XP-E, older ones are a crap shoot of what ever was available for cheep at the time.

  6. #36

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    So I've done a bit of research and feel like I can now ask a few questions about this specific board (From Rey's/Graflex Blade Builder).

    1. The Swing Sensor has a ground. If I wanted to go for the double-axis swing sensor trick, is removing the current one going to disable that sound due to the ones from the store not having a ground? If so, can I add a second one to the bottom of the board and ignore the ground pin? I'm at a loss and don't want to risk putting the wrong leads together.

    2. The Clash Sensor sticks out a little too much for my liking. Anyone safely bend it back or reverse its position to keep the board @ 1"x1"? Can it be replaced with an older clash sensor from another hasbro board with wire leads/breadboard mount?

    3. Finally, that bloody 16ohm speaker. I know an 8ohm or 10 ohm resistor will allow me to use my bass speaker, is a 1/4 watt resistor going to affect the sound drastically?

    Much appreciated to all who gave their input on this thread/ helped others!
    Last edited by Jay-mo; 08-24-2016 at 11:36 PM.

  7. #37

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    Personally, I just can't get the damn thing to stop making constant swinging sounds.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    Personally, I just can't get the damn thing to stop making constant swinging sounds.
    In a bad way, I take it? Either way- a good reason to find a solution to the new 3 pronged sensor.

    When I unboxed my Rey/Graflex & twirled it around (for.. ahem.. testing purposes) for a little while, it seemed that Y axis movement only caused swings... and rarely.

    Maybe we can look into finding a new swing sensor with a ground to replace this one?

  9. #39

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    Hey, Someone asked about making the saber LOUDER. I'm looking at a similar project using Darth Vader saber currently for sale at the Disney store. This board has an 8ohm 1/4watt speaker. I was considering wiring on a 1.5 watt amp like this one and using one of the 2 watt speakers available. This board puts out 4ohm so I know I can use any 8ohm speaker. Is there a problem hooking a 4ohm amp to an 8 ohm sound board?

  10. #40

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    I know this is an old thread....but has ANYONE figured out how to wire TCSS Swing sensor to replace the erratic Hasbro sensor?

    The 3 pins on the Hasbro is a headache...

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