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Thread: MR Yoda help needed

  1. #1

    Default MR Yoda help needed

    Hello all, First time here.

    A friend gave me a MR Yoda lightsaber that had severe corrosion damage on the inside. After disassembling it, it is clear that every piece of the internals is toast. (sound board, switch, everything...) Is it possible to rebuild this, or do all conversions rely on reusing some components from the original electronics? I am looking to do Light and sound.

    Any assistance is appreciated, or at least point me to a tutorial that talks about how to build the innards from scratch?

    Fifer

  2. #2

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    Hi, welcome to the boards.
    Based on the MR-or-Hasbro-FX-Yoda-conversion-kit I found on the site, It assumes your electronics are working. This doesn't mean you can't go about making a working saber, you'll just have to do a lot more work. I would look into a Petite Crouton sound board, get the appropriate battery pack, etc. This will be a project, take your time and document your progress for the rest of us to follow. I'm sure there are others here with more experience doing MR conversions.

  3. #3

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    yoda rebuild.jpg

    I've been trying to figure out a "no solder" solution, as i have no experience working with it. I don't want to invest this much in a project just to brick the most expensive component due to ineptitude. I've spent hours combing the forums and reading the NB manual and i think this setup would work in my rebuild, but would appreciate a veteran's opinion. Can someone take a look at the electronics mock-up at the top of the post? Let me know if i am off base and just making myself look like a youngling.

    a couple points to mention:
    1) I realize the LED module states it is not compatible with the FX conversions. I plan to disassemble the housing and utilize the pre-soldered LED/Lens/Holder. Anything I'm missing with that plan?
    2) The original switch was destroyed from the corrosion. The raised platform/housing for the switch on the outer casing is just over 16mm. i plan to dremmel out a hole for the 16mm AV switch.
    I know it won't be 100% accurate at this point, but I'm ok with that.

  4. #4

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    That's a perfectly valid wiring setup. You will want a resistor added to your main LED. The exact value will depend on the LED you're using. See here if you don't know how to do the calculations: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law

    The resistor would be added inline with either of the two wires on your prewired LED module. It's quick and easy with even a cheap soldering iron, or you could probably get Tim to do it as a custom wiring job.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

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    I thought the resistor wired into the switch was for that purpose... read that in another post somewhere...

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fifer1496 View Post
    I thought the resistor wired into the switch was for that purpose... read that in another post somewhere...
    I believe that resistor is for the LED inside the switch, not your main LED.

  7. #7

    Default

    The resistor in the switch is for the switch LED. You will need a different resistor for the main LED.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

    Default

    The resistor Silver Serpent is talking about is for your MAIN led. The pre-wired switch has a resitor already wired in for the led inside the switch.

    EDIT: Silver Serpent beat me to it...

  9. #9

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    When I use TCSS's resistor calculator, it keeps saying that there isn't enough voltage for this setup. did i miss something in my research? I swear i saw someone else using a 3.7 pack wired to a NB and rebel star in one of the other posts. He had a mock up similar to mine.

    here is my math:

    R Vfbattery VFLED Amps (I)
    0.3 = ( 3.7 - 3.4 ) / 1
    P R I^2
    0.3 = 0.3 1
    Last edited by Fifer1496; 09-26-2015 at 12:25 PM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Math is good. The online calculators aren't as accurate as doing the math yourself. They round up to bigger resistors than you need.

    The Nano Biscotte is designed to be used with a single 3.7 volt li-ion battery. Other battery solutions are okay, but don't use more than 5.5 volts, like 4 AA or AAA batteries (6 volts).
    Last edited by Generic Jedi; 09-26-2015 at 02:25 PM.

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