Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Arcann Inspired Saber Build

  1. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zahc Zi Phan View Post
    For FOC and lockup, the board does all that automatically...
    Not quite. Lockup needs to be triggered by the Aux button, FoC is "done automatically" assuming you don't "deactivate it" via the board's configurations.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  2. #12

    Default

    ok thanks... yea I've been watching the videos you guys have... I have considered the idea of using the hidden aux switch somewhere...

    Do I need a color extender board... I was under the impression that the prism had everything built in as far as I know?
    I saw in the video with nano biscotte that he used an extender board for the FOC function.



    On anther note; I am going to finish my design sketches this week and organize my shopping list for what I will need and see if I can't get this baby going shortly... there will be a short intermission for my steampunk cowboy costume for Halloween but otherwise, I want to stay right on track with things.

  3. #13

    Default

    The Prizms DO NOT use the color extender boards. Those are for the PC and CF's.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #14
    Youngling Zahc Zi Phan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    The forest moon of Endor
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Not quite. Lockup needs to be triggered by the Aux button, FoC is "done automatically" assuming you don't "deactivate it" via the board's configurations.
    Yeah thats what I meant. They are built in features that can be used without the need for extra electronics.

  5. #15

    Default

    I like putting JST connectors on my builds, especially for speakers and switches and such, but I am going to want to wire my own connectors because I want certain color combinations will the standard JST connectors work with 28 awg wire?
    Its as clear as purple crayon!!

  6. #16

    Default

    This: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...ale--P941.aspx will probably work with 28 gauge wire. If you can't crimp the connectors down tight enough to the wire, just solder them in place.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #17

    Default

    kool thanks that probably would work


    So I watched some of the TCSS videos can anyone tell me why he used a .5 ohm resistor at the common positive on the main LED?
    Its as clear as purple crayon!!

  8. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Thousandlegends View Post
    kool thanks that probably would work


    So I watched some of the TCSS videos can anyone tell me why he used a .5 ohm resistor at the common positive on the main LED?

    Without the resistor the LEDs can draw more current than they can handle and they will pop. Although Rob uses a single resistor for two LEDs wired in parallel,it is generally recommended to resistor each individual diode
    The size of the resistor depends on the current capacity of your battery and the forward voltage (VF) of your LEDs using Ohms law

  9. #19

    Default

    looks like the KOTFE font has been added to saberfont!

  10. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    Without the resistor the LEDs can draw more current than they can handle and they will pop. Although Rob uses a single resistor for two LEDs wired in parallel,it is generally recommended to resistor each individual diode
    The size of the resistor depends on the current capacity of your battery and the forward voltage (VF) of your LEDs using Ohms law
    Thanks, yes this much I do know, while I am not the best at ohms law and electrical calculation, I know enough to be dangerous to be honest, I usually wire in the resistor for each LED separately my question is why wire a .5 ohm resistor into the positive (+) position and then wire additional resistors to the negative (-) position of the LED? Why not, just like you said just wire each LED separately and directly? Is it only because thy share a common positive?

    I have always personally just wired my resistors to each LED separately.

    And is there a point to whether you wire it to the Positive (+) or Negative (-) particularly, I have always heard positive but then I read more now where people suggest negative?


    ~Edit~
    looks like the KOTFE font has been added to saberfont!
    Nice thanks!
    Last edited by Thousandlegends; 09-16-2015 at 11:38 AM.
    Its as clear as purple crayon!!

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •