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Thread: Kylo Ren Force FX Lightsaber Conversion Tutorial

  1. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by Augster View Post
    Is there going to be a shopping list posted for everything we'll need from the TCSS store to do this conversion?

    I figured a list would be posted already. If there is one, point me to it please. Thanks!
    If you have the kylo ren fx lightsaber then all you need is

    Kylo Ren blade holder
    Led
    8.7 degree led lens
    Lens holder
    Led thermal tape
    And a retention screw if you wanted.

  2. #72

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    Hi all,

    I am very new to the saber hobby and I have a Kylo arriving tomorrow.

    What equipment will I need to do the conversion?

    Also what will I need to buy for the conversion? (LEDs etc)

  3. #73

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    My list that I used:

    Main Blade
    1. Kylo Ren Conversion Kit (for main blade), conversion kit includes heat sink.
    2. Main blade LED: tri cree. I used Red, Red, White (didn't wire white one)
    3. Tri cree lens for main blade.
    4. I used a 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistor on each negative leg of red led's
    5. double sided heat transfer tape x2 (in case you make mistake)

    Side Emitters
    1. 2x 1 inch LED modules with heat sinks.
    2. 2xSingle red cree LED
    3. 2xLens Holder for single cree
    4. 2x Lens for single cree
    5. I used a 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistor on each single LED negative leg for my build. So you would need 2 resistors, one for each side emitter.
    6. double sided heat transfer tape for LED Star x4 (in case you make mistake)

    Battery Pack: 18650, I got 4 and a charger.
    1. 18650 holder
    2. Speaker holder that also accepts 18650 battery holder. I put my board on this speaker holder module, and it becomes the chassis
    3. T8 plastic tubing to protect chassis
    4. 28 mm 2 watt bass speaker is the one I used, but any 28mm speaker will work in the speaker holder.

    I used 2 momentary switches, and an aftermarket board not available via TCSS. PM for details. 28 Ga. wiring, soldering iron, solder, flux, helping hands.....and a dremel.

    You will have to widen the side emitters on the inside diameter a bit, so that they can facilitate the 1 inch LED Modules from TCSS. They are slightly smaller than 1 in. inside diameter. I used a dremel with a sanding drum to accomplish that. Don't over-do it, you want the 1 inch LED modules to fit in snugly....but simultaneously be able to get them out to change bulbs if need be. Plan where you want your switch(es). You can use the nano biscotti board here, or any other sound board, or you can retain the factory board and follow the OP's directions on wiring for that original board.

    Whatever board you choose, just follow the manual. I did not want to lose the delayed ignition sequence, that was my main consideration in choosing a board.

    Playlist of my progress: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...QSLHKtmJJ33TqY

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...QSLHKtmJJ33TqY

    I'm still waiting on one part, but the wiring is done. I have a lot of spare wiring because I haven't cut anything down yet until I get the critical part I am waiting on from TCSS. Once I get that part, I'll be able to cut the wires down to size. I have bench tested sound, leds, and everything works. She is just waiting on reassembly. I also used a 8-32 tap/bit set to make/thread all my set screw holes. I used allen set screws that were level with the emitters. I made 2 set screw holes on each side emitter (using holes that were already there top and bottom near the main hilt. Then I added additional set screws on the bottom of each emitter to secure the blade. When my conversion kit comes in, I'll add another set screw for the main blade.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 03-14-2017 at 10:24 AM.

  4. #74

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    Curious, what is the quality of the stock side emitter led stars? If converting to be run by a Prizm soundboard will they be bright enough to reuse with a tri cree as main led?

    Also is it possible to reuse the plastic led housing? The saber isn't really for duelling so it isn't as though the side blades would be receiving hard blows. Just trying to cut costs, not so much corners.

  5. #75

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    You can re-use them, but when you upgrade your main LED, I'd be worried about them not matching. Your main blade will be bright and all that mess in the side LED's is dim? The 1 inch LED modules aren't that expensive, and a single die cree star for each side emitter is only 5 bucks, so you're not really saving money. If you're going to all the work to upgrade the saber, then upgrade it fully, don't skimp at the end. Save up for a few weeks.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #76

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    Has anyone done a conversion using tri cree leds in all 3 emitters? I'd love to have deep red/deep red/white in all 3..
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republic—but you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

  7. #77

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    Also in addition to above, how much is a typical conversion? Either yourself or getting someone to do it.
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republic—but you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

  8. #78

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Dreagon View Post
    Has anyone done a conversion using tri cree leds in all 3 emitters? I'd love to have deep red/deep red/white in all 3..
    1st question, as to tri crees in all 3 slots. You could do that, but your run time on a single 18650 would be minimal. You'd have a lot of fun for a few minutes, then hours of recharging. I wanted to experiment with that, but using a different battery solution. I wanted FOC and 2 DR die going, and the 3rd diode would be white for FOC. This would require a more expensive board with multiple available channels as well, particularly if you want the delayed ignition in the side emitters. If this is your first build, I'd keep it simple. You really don't need 2 red diodes going in the side emitters anyhow. They're only illuminating 6". You definitely need 2 going in the main blade though.

    You can pay $475.00 and up to commission this type of conversion with various saber builders. It could be cheaper, it could be more expensive. It would depend upon what you were requesting of the sabersmith. The more complex your desires, the higher their price will be. Speed is just a matter of money, how fast you want to go?

    To do the conversion yourself, based on the list I posted above would be maybe $250 or so in parts, give or take a little. The rest is all your labor. I didn't even know about all this saber building nonsense until I did my first Kylo conversion, under the tutelage of a reputable Kylo Smith. I already had soldering skills, but the small solder pads were new to me. I'm older, and my vision is not as good as it used to be. I had to use a magnifying glass for the soldering. With that being said; however, if you decide to undertake this project, I'm sure you will learn a great deal and be proud of what you have made. I had so much fun doing these conversions, I'm now building other sabers. I've done a Custom MHS (TCSS Modular Hilt System) RGB Saber. A couple stunt sabers for the kids. I recently also just finished a Graflex 2.0 kit. My next project is probably MPP.

    The ball is in your court.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  9. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    1st question, as to tri crees in all 3 slots. You could do that, but your run time on a single 18650 would be minimal. You'd have a lot of fun for a few minutes, then hours of recharging. I wanted to experiment with that, but using a different battery solution. I wanted FOC and 2 DR die going, and the 3rd diode would be white for FOC. This would require a more expensive board with multiple available channels as well, particularly if you want the delayed ignition in the side emitters. If this is your first build, I'd keep it simple. You really don't need 2 red diodes going in the side emitters anyhow. They're only illuminating 6". You definitely need 2 going in the main blade though.

    You can pay $475.00 and up to commission this type of conversion with various saber builders. It could be cheaper, it could be more expensive. It would depend upon what you were requesting of the sabersmith. The more complex your desires, the higher their price will be. Speed is just a matter of money, how fast you want to go?

    To do the conversion yourself, based on the list I posted above would be maybe $250 or so in parts, give or take a little. The rest is all your labor. I didn't even know about all this saber building nonsense until I did my first Kylo conversion, under the tutelage of a reputable Kylo Smith. I already had soldering skills, but the small solder pads were new to me. I'm older, and my vision is not as good as it used to be. I had to use a magnifying glass for the soldering. With that being said; however, if you decide to undertake this project, I'm sure you will learn a great deal and be proud of what you have made. I had so much fun doing these conversions, I'm now building other sabers. I've done a Custom MHS (TCSS Modular Hilt System) RGB Saber. A couple stunt sabers for the kids. I recently also just finished a Graflex 2.0 kit. My next project is probably MPP.

    The ball is in your court.

    Tom
    I have thought about attempting to do it myself but I wouldn't know where to start. I am not sure what equipment I would need, the full shopping list from TCSS etc.

    I just feel that i would 'balls it up!' :/
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republic—but you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

  10. #80

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    If I did go down the route of doing the conversion myself, I would want to put a Prizm soundboard in it
    "Our time has come. For 300 years, we prepared. We grew stronger. While you rested in your cradle of power, believing your people were safe... and protected. You were trusted to lead the Republic—but you were deceived, as our powers of the dark side have blinded you. You assumed no force could challenge you...and now...finally...we have returned. You were deceived. And now, your Republic shall fall!"

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