Kylo Ren Force FX Lightsaber Conversion Tutorial

[DarthMario95]

First off, huge thanks to Tim for providing me with one of the new conversion kits. I've done a conversion using it and will be updating this tutorial accordingly with new pics and instructions on how I used the aluminum blade holder.

[Darth_Venobi]

When I am converting do I need to cut the black plastic piece holding the blade to fit the metal piece on and what do I use to cut it? Also do I need to have a retention screw holding the conversion kit In place?
@DarthMario95

[Kimura]

What LED's were used for this build?

[chendy]

Also curious what type of LED's you used for both the vents and main chamber ?

[Kajeta]

Ok so I have since ironed out all my issues w the conversion. It was my first so learned alot. First off I can't stress how important it is not to put alot of pressure on the end of the board where it fits into the groove on the back side of the heat sink!!! You try and stuff it in and you'll damage the swing and clash sensors so no sound for them. I initially followed the instructions to a T but there was about 4 mm more room that I needed to get things back on the chassis as shown. I learned this the hard way, fortunately I was able to acquire a new bs board without a damage swing clash sensor, but this time I did things a little different. First I gutted the chassis, made it completely hollow, no play pieces that you put the board thru just the set needed to keep the battery circle in place. Then I made it so I only used as short of wires as I could get away with. Anyone who's done this know you have 3 times the wires to fit in a smaller area than on most sabers lol.. I wrapped what wires I could with a small piece of electric tape as well as the board. Then I positioned the board as close to the bottom of the chassis as possible with my gotta to have it not even touch that notch under the sink. Was scared that the board would rattle or something else would f up but it didn't. Once i was able to get the wires thru the top part of the hilti put it back together and not only did I have working swing /clash sensor /sounds, the on off switch(which prior was super hard to turn on and off) worked as easy as it did stock. Nothing inside is shaking or makes any noise, unlike before. My only issue is that the actual built becomes more shaky Everytime you disassemble it, must be the aluminium softness. I just they some super glue in the seams and sprinkler baking soda over it, this creates an incredibly strong resin and is barely noticeable. Now it does make and noises or clanks. Also I bored out the side emitters to fit 1 in blade. And have equipped then with dueling blades along w main blade. Total weight is about 4.3lbs!!! You have to have some muscles to word this thingFB_IMG_1467261663191.jpg

[Blackscorpio]

hello what led and resistor do you use ?

[emperor Vader]

Anyone try replacing the belt clip with a functioning one? I saw one on shape ways and was wondering if that works. There was a spacer for it too.

[Korhall]

The Tri-Cre Star LED, the Tri-rebel Luxeon LED, and the single LED versions of them all will work for this conversion. Usually I would do a tri-LED for the main blade and single LEDs for the side emitters. For resistors, you need none unless running red or orange if using the LEDs from TCSS. Then you will need some 1 ohm resistors for each LED star. You can replace the belt clip on it with a functional one if you like. There are a lot of aftermarket ones out there you can use or you can try to make one yourself.

[GothamsKnight]

Will the stock BS sound board be robust enough to handle a tri-cree main blade and single cree side blades, or is a beefier sound board required for that setup?

[Augster]

Is there going to be a shopping list posted for everything we'll need from the TCSS store to do this conversion?

I figured a list would be posted already. If there is one, point me to it please. Thanks!