1st Build and Need A More Experienced Pair of Eyes

[Gildarts]

Hello and thank you for taking the time to view my first build's parts list.

I'd like to start by saying that the following list is the end result of my doing as much research as I could and I simply can't do or think of doing anymore than showing you what I have selected and asking what I missed. Please ignore item availability in the store.

I'll try to break it into relevant grouping.

Goal: Create a stuntsaber. So only light on and off. A momentary switch will be converted into a latching switch. A focus on using the MHS parts and MWS components to avoid an soldering if possible.

Parts List:

Blade-
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long (37 inches)
40" LED blade diffuser for 1" thick walled blades [obviously will need to be cut to size]
Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades
1" Hilt safety plug - Trans White

Hilt-
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 10
MHS choke style 3
Hilt style 3 w/ Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole
MPS Pommel style 8
MPS Insert style 4
MPS Clip
8-32 Covertec Button Thumbscrew (Clear)
Covertec Clip

Electronics-
Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module (says to run reds and amber at 700mA and all others at 1000mA)
MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel
MWS Momentary to Latching Converter 2.5-7.0v
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
18650 Single Cell Holder
MWS BuckPuck

Recharging-
See Questions below.


Future steps:
Cut the diffuser to correct size.
Need hole for Covertec button.
Need hole for screw to hold blade.


Questions:
1. Does everything look like it will go together?
2. I am not sure about my choice of battery, whether or not it will go in the holder. Does it? Does it work with the BuckPuck.
3. Recharging...I can't figure out how to connect a protected battery with JST connector to a smart charger. How and what to buy? I'd prefer not to have a recharge port hole on my saber and avoid soldering.
*Note on Questions 1 and 2: I have tried researching this, but electricity might as well be magic and soldering in the past has proven to not be in my skill set; I'm at a loss.
4.Does the blade diffuser fit snugly in the blade or do I need to screw into it so that it does not bouncy around when moving the saber?
5. If I build two and use an adapter to connect them what do I need to keep the batteries in place so they do not slide? Should I instead use the two plastic rings(in each saber) from the shop to hold those batteries?


Again thanks for taking the time to look at my parts list and for any answers you can give me. I tried to do my due diligence before asking for help, but I've hit the limit on what I can figure out without getting feedback on what I've figured out so far.

[Miraluka]

Buckpucks require a minimum voltage of 5V so you can't use a single 3.7V battery. You'll want one of the 7.4V battery packs for the buckpuck or to use a resistor if you use a 3.7V battery.

For charging, if you use a battery holder and 18650, you'll need a charger for holding removable batteries, if you use a battery pack, you need a recharge port and a charger with a 2.1mm plug. If you use a recharge port, don't forget you'll need a hole for it. You can DIY or order the recharge port hole service.

Also keep in mind, you'll need to solder a bit if you use removable batteries and a battery holder AND if you use a resistor instead of a buckpuck.

I haven't used the blade diffuser but it probably fits properly. I assume people would usually use a little glue at the bottom to hold it in but I can't be certain.

Whether you connect 2 sabers together or not, you'll want to keep the batteries from moving around. When you said "instead" of using the plastic rings, what was your alternative?

Edit: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to have a recharge port installed in your saber to use one of the battery packs with a JST connector. It's very convenient and pretty much ideal, but you can just attach a JST connector to a recharge port as a jumper, then remove your battery from the saber, plug the battery into the JST connector and your recharge port to your charger. I have a jumper like that at home that I use for this exact reason. If you don't get what I mean I can provide photos.

[Cire Yeldarb]

1. Does everything look like it will go together?
2. I am not sure about my choice of battery, whether or not it will go in the holder. Does it? Does it work with the BuckPuck.
3. Recharging...I can't figure out how to connect a protected battery with JST connector to a smart charger. How and what to buy? I'd prefer not to have a recharge port hole on my saber and avoid soldering.
*Note on Questions 1 and 2: I have tried researching this, but electricity might as well be magic and soldering in the past has proven to not be in my skill set; I'm at a loss.
4.Does the blade diffuser fit snugly in the blade or do I need to screw into it so that it does not bouncy around when moving the saber?
5. If I build two and use an adapter to connect them what do I need to keep the batteries in place so they do not slide? Should I instead use the two plastic rings(in each saber) from the shop to hold those batteries?

1. The buckpuck will be needing 5v (as Miraluka already mentioned), so you either need to get a 7.4v Battery pack and 4.5-20V Latching Converter, or stick with the battery pack and converter you have and just wire in a resistor for the LED instead.

2. Not sure if the packs fit in those particular holders, but you are really going to want a full chassis setup anyways... (see my answer to your questions 5)

3. Get a http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...Port-P877.aspx to go in between your battery pack and the board. I know you don't want a hole for the recharge port in your saber, but thats why you can use these chassis discs http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...t-S8-P772.aspx to hold the recharge port inside the saber, right near the pommel for ease of access.

4. With the diffuser cut to the size of the outer blade, when the blade is inserted in the saber, bottom of both butt up against the blade holder, keeping them from moving. When you take the blade out, I have never had a problem with the diffuser falling out. Its not hard to remove, but it won't just fall out on its own either.

5. Here is where I am going to recommend a full chassis setup. You really don't want your Li-Ion battery banging around inside the saber (whether you have a double sided or not). In my first saber, I used a 4AAA battery pack to provide power, and didnt really think about a chassis, but whenever I used the saber, I could feel the battery pack banging around. I no longer use that saber as it has become a great annoyance (if it was li-ion, it would be a danger too!), and when I upgrade that saber to sound, I am going to be putting in a full chassis setup.

[Gildarts]

Whether you connect 2 sabers together or not, you'll want to keep the batteries from moving around. When you said "instead" of using the plastic rings, what was your alternative?

I missed a comma, the alternative to the batter holder was the acrylic chassis discs.

Thank you Miraluka and Cire Yeldarb for your help you've cleared it all up for me.

[Miraluka]

Oh, yeah I didn't realize you had put the battery holder and the pre-wired battery. Yeah, those batteries don't fit in there. Those are meant to hold removable batteries like this

And even if you were using that battery holder, it wouldn't solve the problem of the battery moving around, it'd just be the battery and the battery holder moving around.

I agree with Cire. If you buy stunt sabers from some saber certain companies, they will just have a Velcro strap wrapped around the battery to keep it from knocking around the sides of the hilt but it still slides up and down. You can feel it move around and it's pretty annoying. You can be creative with how you secure the battery but you definitely want it secure.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Thank you Miraluka and Cire Yeldarb for your help you've cleared it all up for me.

Happy to be of service!

I agree with Cire. If you buy stunt sabers from some saber certain companies, they will just have a Velcro strap wrapped around the battery to keep it from knocking around the sides of the hilt but it still slides up and down. You can feel it move around and it's pretty annoying. You can be creative with how you secure the battery but you definitely want it secure.

Oh yeah, I forgot about those... Got that setup in a pre-made saber once and promptly gutted it all out and replaced with TCSS parts and chassis. Nice and secure ever since!